So where do you start looking for the best luxury car? You should first look for dealers available in your area. If you live near a big city, you should have plenty of options for luxury car dealerships. If you live in a more remote area, you will probably have more difficulty finding a local dealership, and will need to travel to your nearest metropolis. Either way, keep in mind that it will be easier in the future if you find a dealership that is close to your home or work. It will be more convenient to drop your car off for routine maintenance or service if it is close to your normal routes.

After you have checked your local area, be sure to do a lot of research on the Internet. Look for the models that your local dealerships may have available. Consider what type of luxury car might be best for you. Some cars will focus more on presenting an aura of success and wealth (like Lincoln) while others (like Subaru) target people who want a powerful engine under the hood.

Narrow down your choices, and look at the history of the models you are still considering. It is well worth buying a Consumer Reports magazine, or the annual new car buying guide, to look at that model over the last several years. Consumer Reports does a very thorough job researching the quality of the cars they review, and you can get a lot of good information on problems that model has had through the years, as well as the positive aspects of that model.

One thing to keep in mind when choosing the best luxury car for you is gas consumption. In the last year or two, this has become more of a major concern in car buying at any level. A few years ago, it was not much of a factor, which is why half the people you see driving around today own gas guzzling SUVs. There is no end in sight to rising gas prices, so try to find a car that can maintain decent gas mileage at standard city and highway speeds.

When doing your research, look at the resale value of the car. You can get that information from the Kelley Blue Book or other sources. If you really want to play the depreciation game, buy a car that is one to two years old, where the majority of the value is already lost. You will be spending a lot of money buying the best luxury car you can afford, but that’s no reason to invest poorly. Finally, consider how much money you will need to spend on routine maintenance or potential repairs. This may take some additional research, as the dealerships are not generally forthcoming with that information.

By doing your homework thoroughly, you will find the best luxury car for you. Don’t buy more than you can afford, and get the best deal you can. Enjoy the ride!

There are a number of ways to pay for your new car. And of course, how you decide to pay for your car will also determine how much you end up paying for it. Below are the most common payment methods and the advantages of each option.

Cash – The ideal option but not one available to many. Buying your car for cash means that it belongs to you from the beginning and you can also sell it at any time, without having to settle outstanding debt with a financial institution first. You will also only pay the price you see and will save thousands in interest.

Part cash, part trade-in – If you have a car to sell or trade in, the dealer will usually be quite happy to take your car as part payment for the new vehicle.

Bear in mind though, that you will probably only be offered book value for your old car, as the dealer still has to add his/her mark up to the price they will sell it at, as well as pay for any minor repairs to the car and pay VAT on the sale if he/she sells your old car to someone else.

If the dealer you are buying from does not sell the make of car you are wanting to trade in, they may re-sell your old car to another dealer on your behalf. This will not affect the price you get for your car as you are not involved in the sale after you agree on the trade-in price you are offered.

Instalment options – This is probably the most common way to finance a car. The law usually requires a minimum of ten per cent deposit and the balance (plus interest) is calculated over a maximum of 54 months (for a private individual) or 60 months (for those with car allowances) at the prime lending rate. Be aware that you can sometimes negotiate a slightly lower interest rate. You can also trade in your old vehicle as a deposit on your new car.

Residual or balloon payment options (Usually for company employees with car allowances as they don’t keep their vehicle for the full repayment period) – This is a way of deferring a percentage of the purchase price until the end of an instalment sale, lease or financial rental agreement. The monthly payments are lower but you have to pay the bank the balance at the end of the instalment period. The idea behind the residual payment method is to link the monthly repayments to the usage of the car and create a payment equivalent to the anticipated market value of the car when it is sold.

You may sell or trade in your vehicle at the end of this period, but make sure that the vehicle is worth more, or at least what the settlement is. For example, if you purchased a car for R100 000, and you took a 60/40 residual payment option over four and a half years, you would still owe R40 000 to the bank when the repayment period is up. If a dealer bought the car for R60 000, they would first settle the R40 000 balance with the bank and you would be left with R20 000 towards your next car.

News flash – Residual payment option available soon to private individuals

From 1 June 2007, both private individuals and those with car allowances will be able to purchase a new car over 72 months (with a residual option) at the bank’s discretion. You can then decide whether you want to return the car to the bank after that time (if it is a rental agreement), pay the amount still owing on the vehicle or trade the car in on a new car.

Using your home loan to purchase a car – If you have an access bond facility, you will have the amount that you have already paid off on your home loan available for your use. You are legally entitled to use this money to purchase a car, as it is yours to spend however you like. For example, if you originally registered a home loan for R1 million, but have paid R200 000 of this loan, then that amount will be available to you to use for a car purchase. If you used that R200 000 to buy a car, the home loan would increase to R1 million again, and your re-payments would be adjusted accordingly.

You will be paying a lower interest rate if you choose to finance your car this way; for example, if you financed your vehicle through a bank, you may have to pay interest at the prime lending rate, but you may qualify for prime less two percent on your home loan interest rate. Also, if you paid off R60 000 owing on your car over fou

four and a half years, your repayments would be in the region of R1500 per month, but only about R650 a month if you financed your car through your home loan.

Even if you have not paid off much of your home loan, but your house has appreciated in value since you bought it, you can have your home valued again, and apply to increase your home loan to the higher value (provided you qualify for the higher amount). When the new bond is registered, you can withdraw the cash to purchase your car (and therefore avoid paying vehicle hire purchase interest) and pay the bank back over 20 years as part of your home loan.

You can always dump extra money into your home loan every month, or make a lump sum payment at any time, when you can afford to do so. This will decrease the repayment period of both your home and your car. If you finance a car through hire purchase, you do not have the option of making extra payments when you can afford to do so.

When choosing your payment options, consider your needs and what you can afford. Obviously, the shorter the loan repayment period, the less interest you will pay, and therefore the less the car will cost you in the long run, but not everyone has too much of a choice when buying a new car.

BUYING A NEW CAR GIVES GREAT PLEASURE TO EVERYONE BUT THE PROCESS OF BUYING A NEW CAR SEEMS TO BE COMPLEX.

TEST DRIVE

Make sure you take the car you are considering buying for a test drive. A thorough test drive will help you ascertain whether you will be comfortable in the car. It will also enable you to work out if the vehicle suits your needs. It makes sense to test drive a number of cars so that you can make comparisons. Before you leave the car yard, do not forget to check your legal liability if an accident should occur whilst on your test drive.

DETERMINING THE TRUE AGE OF A NEW CAR

You should be aware that in some cases a new car marketed as a “current model” may have been manufactured in the previous year. Remember that the age of a car – a factor likely to affect its resale value – is taken from its date of manufacture, not its date of first
registration. This date is stamped on a car’s “build plate”, which is attached to the vehicle when it is assembled at the factory.

COMPULSORY CHARGES

Remember that charges, such as motor vehicle duty and dealer delivery fees, are sometimes added to the advertised price of the car. These charges will be specified in a disclaimer in an advertisement for a vehicle unless the car is advertised at a “drive-away” or “on the road” price.

OPTIONAL EXTRAS

Before negotiating your deal, work out which optional extras you may want and whether they are worth the additional cost. Often desirable features, such as airbags, are offered as extras. Remember to check with the vehicle manufacturer to find out if the fitting of such
items after delivery will affect the warranty.

TRADE-INS

Remain focused on the total cost of swapping your car for the one you are buying. A high trade-in offer for your old car might appear attractive, but the new car price may simply have been increased to cover the difference. Also, ensure you keep your old car until the
new one is ready for delivery.

CONTRACT

The agreement for sale is a legally binding contract. Before signing it, make sure you read and understand it. Remember that for new cars there is no “cooling-off period” or time during which you may cancel the contract. Also keep in mind that if you have signed a contract to buy a new car with more than one trader you can be forced to buy more than one car.

Never sign a blank contract or one with any unfilled spaces and insist that all costs are clearly itemised in the document. Also, do not sign the contract if a delivery date or deadline is not specified as you may have to wait a considerable amount of time for the vehicle. If the dealer is unable to specify a delivery date, the contract should include a date after which you no longer wish to proceed with the purchase. The contract should specify the vehicle’s colour and any other particulars or optional extras. If you want to buy a car that was manufactured in a particular year, then specify that in your contract too.

Should you get finance before signing?
You are not required to arrange finance before signing the contract.However, make sure that your contract states that the sale is dependent upon you obtaining finance from a specified company. The following wording could be helpful: “this contract is subject to and conditional upon the purchaser being satisfied with finance from (insert the name of your credit provider) by (date)”. Alternatively, you can apply for finance and wait for approval before signing. This allows you to shop around knowing exactly how much money you have to spend.

Unfavourable clauses
Ask your trader to delete any clauses in the contract that could have negative consequences for you. For example, listing the delivery date as “ASAP” (as soon as possible) could mean delivery of the vehicle is delayed so try to get a date specified in the contract.

MANUFACTURER’S WARRANTY

All new cars come with a manufacturer’s warranty. It is worth studying the warranty carefully as details, such as the length of the warranty period, vary between vehicle retailers and manufacturers. Identify and have corrected any faults at the first mechanical service that should occur soon after delivery. If repairs are required during the warranty period, the car should be taken back to your authorised dealer.Qualified independent repairers can undertake servicing without affecting the warranty provided the work is done in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications and genuine parts and lubricants are used.

PRE-DELIVERY CHECK

New car dealers will examine the car before you collect it. However, it might also be worth giving the car a once over to check:
1) the bodywork for dents and chips in
2) the paintwork
3) the date the car was built
4) the interior trim for cuts and scratches
5) there is a spare tyre, tool kit and jack
6) the lights and indicators to ensure they
work properly
7) the accessories or extras you ordered, and
that the features specified in the contract
are included.
This check is best done in a well-lit area. You may also wish to take the car for a test drive with the sales representative to check for mechanical faults.Make a note of any faults that will be fixed at no charge during the car’s first service. Ensure the sales representative has signed the note.

DO SOME RESEARCH
Go for a test drive.
If you are a probationary licence holder, remember that there are restrictions on the types of cars you can drive.

Check the calendar year in which the vehicle was built as this may affect its resale value. This date should be stamped on the car’s “build plate”, which is affixed to a car when it is assembled and can often be found on the bulkhead between the engine and passenger compartments.
If you are buying a second-hand car,have an RACV or a VACC member or another qualified mechanic carry out a mechanical inspection.

Know what you are paying
Before buying a car, undertake some research into ongoing costs.
Shop around for finance and insurance.
If you are buying from a licensed car trader,negotiate one total drive-away price,including government charges.

Do not feel pressured
Know what you want from a car and take the time to find it.
Do not feel pressured to sign on the dotted line.
Take time to consider the deal.

Buying a new car
Remember that compulsory charges, such as stamp duty and dealer delivery fees, are added to the price of the car unless it is being advertised at a “drive-away” or “on-the-road” price.

For us, the sum of those attributes is epitomized by the BMW 3-series. Not only is this true for 2009, the addition has been coming out the same way now for 18 years: a string of consecutive 10Best Cars appearances that’s unique in the 27-year history of these awards.

Renewed in 2006, the U.S. line of the 2009 3-series includes the broadest array of models in its history: four body styles, including folding-hardtop convertibles; four engine options, including a 3.0-liter, turbo-diesel inline-six and, a first for this family, a V-8. The latter is the 414-hp, 4.0-liter V-8 that propels the latest M3 coupe, sedan, and convertible to the threshold of supercar territory. There are even three transmissions, including BMW’s first dual-clutch automated manual gearbox.

Is this perfection? History has shown that there’s always room for improvement. But even so, in our view, no current family of cars comes closer to that elusive target.

VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine; rear- or 4-wheel-drive; 4–5-passenger; 2-door coupe, 2-door convertible, 4-door sedan, or 5-door wagon

BASE PRICE: $34,225–$68,675

ENGINES: DOHC 24-valve 3.0-liter inline-6, 230 hp, 200 lb-ft; twin-turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 24-valve 3.0-liter inline-6, 300 hp, 300 lb-ft; twin-turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 24-valve 3.0-liter diesel inline-6, 265 hp, 425 lb-ft; DOHC 32-valve 4.0-liter V-8, 414 hp, 295 lb-ft

TRANSMISSIONS: 6-speed auto with manumatic shifting, 7-speed dual-clutch automated manual, 6-speed manual

DIMENSIONS:
Wheelbase: 108.7 in Length: 178.2–181.8 in Width: 70.2–71.5 in Height: 54.1–57.0 in
Curb weight: 3350–4150 lb

FUEL ECONOMY:
EPA city/highway driving: 13–23/20–36 mpg.

Overview Of the 2009 BMW 3-series sedan:
Highs
Supple ride, first-rate fit and finish, smooth powertrains, decent fuel economy, twin-turbo six is stupid fast, turbo-diesel gives good mileage.

Lows
It can get pricey.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2006; ’09 models get freshened styling and revised iDrive. There’s a newly available diesel engine now, too.

Behind The Wheel
Great steering feel, a perfectly tuned chassis, and powerful engines combine to form the definitive sports sedan.

Capsule Review

The benchmark for sports sedans, the 3-series blends comfort, luxury, speed, and handling in a sublime way. A 10Best Cars award winner for nearly two decades, the
3-series is available with a 230-hp inline-six, a 300-hp, twin-turbo six, or a 265-hp six-cylinder turbodiesel.

2009 BMW 3-series convertible:

Highs
Fantastically supportive and comfortable seats, silky smooth six-cylinders; twin-turbo 335i is a rocket.

Lows
Unexpectedly heavy, steep bottom line, trunk gets small when the top is down.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2007; no major changes for 2009.

Behind The Wheel
No disappointments—properly weighted and precise steering and brakes; enthusiast-satisfying agility through the twisties.

Capsule Review

This is BMW’s impressive first attempt at a folding hardtop, which vastly improves the fifth-generation 3-series convertible’s outward visibility and refinement with the top up. A 328i finished first in a comparison test of five luxury droptops, including an Audi A4 and Volvo C70.

2009 BMW 3-series coupe:

Highs
Stellar steering feel, sports-car handling, powerful and quiet twin-turbo six, fuel efficient base engine, arguably the best-looking BMW.

Lows
Fully optioned examples can be pricey, nav system forces one to get iDrive.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2007; no major changes for 2009.

Behind The Wheel
Refined, quick, and fun to drive—it’s everything an enthusiast could want at a price that isn’t out of reach.

Capsule Review

Winner of a 10Best Cars award many times over, the 3-series coupe comes in two tasty flavors: the twin-turbo 335i, which nearly matches the performance of the last-gen M3, and the 328i, which blends speed and fuel efficiency almost perfectly. Both are available with all-wheel drive.

2009 BMW 3-series Sports Wagon:

Highs
Superb to drive; great handling; smooth, powerful, and fuel-efficient engines; looks a bit less odd now.

Lows
Doesn’t have a Vista Cruiser–grade cargo area.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2006; the 3-series wagon gets restyled front and rear fascias and the option of a diesel engine for ’09.

Behind The Wheel
High-quality interior, excellent seats, comfortable but firm ride, quiet and powerful engines.

Capsule Review

BMW’s 3-series wagon delivers the same dynamic excellence as the 3-series sedan but with a bigger cargo area. The steering, poise, and handling are nearly unparalleled in any vehicle, much less other wagons. All-wheel drive and a fuel-sipping turbo-diesel engine are optional.

2009 Cadillac CTS Cars:

Highs
Germanic chassis, distinctive exterior design, strong engines, copious rear-seat space, high-quality interior.

Lows
Manual transmission lacks refinement, slightly overweight.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2008; Sport package now comes with steering-wheel-mounted shifters.

Behind The Wheel
Quick underfoot, taut and responsive chassis. Skip the manual; automatic transmission is slick and offers manual override.

Capsule Review

All-new last year, the CTS continues to impress with its excellent refinement, powerful engines, knife-edge styling, handsome interior, and Germanic handling. A 10Best winner, the CTS offers all-wheel drive and a 304-hp, direct-injection V-6 although the base V-6 is plenty strong.

2009 Cadillac CTS-V:

Highs
Sophisticated good looks, handsome interior, quiet on the highway, seductive power.

Lows
A little hefty at the scales, a little thirsty at the pump.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2009.

Behind The Wheel
With 556 horsepower on tap, you can expect lots of hustle. But in light of the two-ton curb weight, the CTS-V’s eager responses, athletic balance, and absurd levels of grip and grace are stupefying. This is a true American thoroughbred.

Capsule Review

We liked the first hot-rod Caddy, with a couple of provisos: too much of a bad-boy, not enough Cadillac. The second generation ends those doubts with more agility, more refinement, and much more power from a supercharged 6.2-liter V-8. “World-class” is not too strong a term.

2009 Cadillac DTS:

Highs
V-8 power, voluminous trunk and interior, soft seats, soft ride, soft everything.

Lows
Slow-down-grandpa handling, dated four-speed automatic, expensive.

What’s New
Redesigned in 2006; no major changes for 2009.

Behind The Wheel
Cadillac’s other models subscribe to the German idea of luxury, but the DTS sticks to the American formula of soft, large, quiet, comfortable, and total sensory deprivation.

Capsule Review

This front-wheel-drive sedan may look like the rest of the Caddy lineup, but its handling and ride are more suited for the retirement set than the rest of its showroom siblings. Luxury and safety features abound, and for more rear-seat space, a long-wheelbase DTS-L is available.

2009 Chevrolet Corvette:

The big news in the Corvette camp this year is obviously the ZR1 supercar, the 638-hp rocket that’s the capo di tutti capo of Vettes. We’re seduced by Chevy’s new missile, but we can’t include it in our 2009 awards because it has a base price that’s some 34 grand north of our maximum base price of $71,000 (2.5 times the average transaction price for all light-duty vehicles sold in 2008). That cutoff (down $1000 from 2007) also eliminates the Z06, an ’08 listee whose ’09 base price has crept over the line.

But never mind. Extensively updated last year, including a useful infusion of horsepower, the standard Corvette coupe and convertible continue to deliver a level of performance and style that’s unbeatable for the money.

Beyond its credentials as an outstanding high-performance buy, we’ve also been impressed by the ongoing improvements in Corvette assembly quality, materials, and everyday comfort.

Cadillac coined the “American Standard for the World” mantra, but in the world of sports cars, those words describe the Corvette.

VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2-passenger, 3-door targa or 2-door roadster

BASE PRICE: $47,895–$52,550

ENGINE TYPE: pushrod 16-valve 6.2-liter V-8
Power (SAE net): 430 or 436 bhp @ 5900 rpm
Torque (SAE net): 424 or 428 lb-ft @ 4600 rpm

TRANSMISSIONS: 6-speed auto with manumatic shifting, 6-speed manual

DIMENSIONS:
Wheelbase: 105.7 in Length: 174.6 in Width: 72.6 in Height: 49.0 in
Curb weight: 3200–3350 lb

FUEL ECONOMY:
EPA city/highway driving: 15–16/25–26 mpg

2009 Chevrolet Corvette coupe:

Highs
High chassis rigidity, handsome good looks, awesome 6.2-liter V-8, good luggage space, upgraded interior is quite nice.

Lows
Seats short on lateral support, cup holders still useless.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2005; Bluetooth, variable-ratio steering, and two colors for the interior-upgrade package are new.

Behind The Wheel
Excellent balance, neutral handling, fine brakes, plentiful torque, 0 to 60 mph in 4.0 seconds.

Capsule Review

Through most of its 50-plus years, the Corvette has been at the forefront of sports-car performance with an amalgam of style and speed that’s made it an American icon. Last year’s engine and interior upgrades made this quick, comfortable, and relatively affordable sports car even better.

2009 Chevrolet Corvette convertible:

Highs
430-hp V-8 (436 with optional dual-mode exhaust), tenacious cornering, surprising luggage space, flex-free chassis.

Lows
Excessive body motions, push-button doors, base interior is a bit chintzy.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2005; a power top becomes standard on the 2LT trim level, while the new 1LT trim lowers the cost of entry.

Behind The Wheel
Weighty steering, feline responses, tremendous brakes, lots of grunt.

Capsule Review

The Corvette began as a convertible more than a half-century ago and has gone on to become a world-class sports car. The latest Vette roadster has an ultra-rigid chassis for exceptionally athletic responses, and it was further enhanced last year with an enlarged, 6.2-liter V-8 engine.

2009 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 :

Highs
Supercharged V-8 power, frightening acceleration, crisp handling, the top-dog Corvette.

Lows
Price, cheap and floppy seats, plebeian Corvette interior.

What’s New
Introduced for 2009.

Behind The Wheel
Tapping into all 638 horsepower will scare any passengers silly, and the handling is crisper and more accurate than lesser Vettes. Aside from the crazy power, the rest of the driving experience is typical Corvette, which is a good thing.

Capsule Review

At the top of Corvette hierarchy, and cresting the $100,000 mark, is the supercharged ZR1 that packs 638 horsepower. A hard-core chassis and improved aerodynamics crank up handling and stability, which is much appreciated considering the ZR1 can top 200 mph.

2009 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 :

Highs
Monster motor, superb chassis, surprisingly good ride and comfort, sweet styling.

Lows
Bucket seats don’t match performance potential.

What’s New
Reintroduced for 2006; larger capacity for the dry-sump oil system, power-operated hatch closure, and new wheels are among the 2009 updates.

Behind The Wheel
Surprisingly compliant ride and race-car reflexes go with massive power. Watch out for oversteer!

Capsule Review

The Z06 offers a blend of refinement, speed, and athleticism that’s unbeatable for the money, but its place at the head of the Vette table has been usurped by the beastly ZR1. With a 505-hp, 7.0-liter V-8 underhood, the Z06 flies from 0 to 60 mph in 3.4 seconds and has race-car reflexes.

2009 Honda Accord:

“A remarkable automobile from a remarkable automobile . . . company.”

That summary is from our January 1983 issue, when the Accord won a spot on our first 10Best Cars list. And it’s clear, 27 years later, that the praise still applies.

It’s equally clear that the Accord has evolved steadily to maintain its position as a mainstream pacesetter. From the compact sedan that won inaugural 10Best honors, the Accord has gone through seven generations en route to today’s coupe and sedan lineup, cars that are much bigger, much more refined, and much more powerful than their honorable ancestor. Indeed, in its makeover for the 2008 model year, the Accord sedan expanded to large-car status according to the EPA definition, which is based on a car’s interior volume.

Bigger is better from a family point of view, and we’re happy to report that the increase in size hasn’t diluted the crisp responses and exacting path accuracy that have always made Accords so satisfying to drive.

One proof of the Accord’s ongoing excellence is that through all those generations of models over 34 years, Honda has never felt any need to abandon that brand name. Another proof: 23 10Best trophies in 27 years. Outstanding barely describes this achievement.

VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, front-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 4-door sedan or 2-door coupe

BASE PRICE: $21,445–$29,475

ENGINES: DOHC 16-valve 2.4-liter inline-4, 177 or 190 hp, 161 or 162 lb-ft; SOHC 24-valve 3.5-liter V-6, 271 hp, 251 or 254 lb-ft

TRANSMISSIONS: 5-speed auto, 5- or 6-speed manual

DIMENSIONS:
Wheelbase: 107.9–110.2 in Length: 190.9–194.3 in Width: 72.7–72.8 in Height: 56.4–58.1 in
Curb weight: 3250–3600 lb

FUEL ECONOMY:
EPA city/highway driving: 17–22/25–31 mpg

Introduction

Honda’s large family car, available in coupe and sedan form, isn’t just a perennial 10Best Cars winner, it dominates the list. The last time the Accord wasn’t on the list was 1997, and the car has appeared a whopping 22 times. The reason? Simple: The Accord has everything you want in a sensible car—reliability, a comfortable and friendly interior, and good fuel economy—plus good engines and lively handling to keep pulse rates raised.

The 2008 model year brought the eighth-generation Accord, which was first introduced back in 1976. The big news for 2009 is the addition of a diesel powertrain later in the year. Power and torque for that engine are expected to be about 160 horsepower and 260 pound-feet, which should provide a very different driving experience from Honda’s high-revving gas engines. Those are still around, starting with a 177-hp four in LX and LX Premium trim levels in the sedan. The coupe starts in LX Premium trim with an upgraded, 190-hp engine, which also comes installed in the EX and EX-L trim in both coupe and sedan. Finally, EX V-6 (sedan only) and EX-L V-6 trims come with, you guessed it, a six-cylinder engine good for 271 horsepower.

Verdict

The Accord is a favorite of ours because of its willing powertrains and fun-to-drive personality, with good steering feedback and controlled body motions. On the downside, the latest model’s new looks and gargantuan proportions may be a turn-off for those used to previous Accords, but to those folks we say not to worry: this is one darn good car.

What’s New for 2009

The V-6 power rating is up three horsepower. The diesel engine, Honda’s first for North America, is all-aluminum. Emissions are kept in check through a special two-section NOX converter. The first section stores NOX; the other converts NOX to ammonia (NH3). The ammonia then reacts with the stored NOX to produce water and nitrogen.

Highlights and Recommendations

The sweet spot for the Accord is the 190-hp four-cylinder. It sounds good, drives well, and returns the same EPA-rated 31 mpg highway as the base engine. High-end options such as satellite radio, navigation, leather, dual-zone auto climate control, and heated front seats require the EX-L trim or above. The V-6 offers impressive power and still returns decent fuel economy—29 mpg highway—but if you’re willing to give up the straight-line speed, you can save a lot of money without giving up much driving pleasure.

Safety

Honda likes to tout the standard safety equipment in its cars, and the Accord fills that bill. Front, front side, and curtain airbags are standard. Stability control, panic brake assist, and active head restraints also come at no charge.

2009 Honda Fit:

The name and the face are familiar, but this isn’t the same Honda Fit that rewrote big sections of the subcompact playbook when it made its U.S. debut in 2006. Known as the Jazz in other world markets, that car had been around since 2001, making it due for a major makeover, and that’s exactly what it got. It’s essentially a brand-new car—longer wheelbase, a little bigger overall, slightly roomier within, a little more mass, a little more muscle, a little more hustle, with the same fuel economy.

We were impressed with the high-quality appointments and design that distinguished the interior of the first Fit, but the makeover raises both elements of the inner car by a couple of notches. It also improves the usefulness of this amazingly voluminous small car. For example, the rear seatbacks flop forward with a single flip of a lever. Honda has added an adjustment for steering-wheel reach, as well as rake, and there’s also a nav-system option.

The best part is that Honda’s updates haven’t diluted this car’s warrior spirit at all. The Fit won’t contort facial muscles at full throttle, but its agility ranks at the top of the econocar charts. If there’s a better combination of thrift, practicality, and fun-to-drive, we haven’t seen it yet.

VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, front-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 5-door wagon

BASE PRICE: $15,220

ENGINE TYPE: SOHC 16-valve 1.5-liter inline-4
Power (SAE net): 117 bhp @ 6600 rpm
Torque (SAE net): 106 lb-ft @ 4800 rpm

TRANSMISSIONS: 5-speed auto, 5-speed auto with manumatic shifting, 5-speed manual

DIMENSIONS:
Wheelbase: 98.4 in Length: 161.6 in Width: 66.7 in Height: 60.0 in

Curb weight: 2500–2650 lb

FUEL ECONOMY:
EPA city/highway driving: 27–28/33–35 mpg

2009 Honda Accord coupe:

Highs
Larger and more stylish than previous two-door Accords, has real street cred with the six-speed manual/V-6 combo.

Lows
Still just an Accord underneath, we’d rather have a BMW 1-series for the money.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2008; unchanged for 2009.

Behind The Wheel
Chic and ultra-refined, the Accord coupe offers real handling prowess—what Honda doesn’t?—and big grunt from the V-6.

Capsule Review

Redesigned for 2008, the Accord coupe is larger than its predecessor and separated more from the sedan by a wind-smoothed body and sportier interior. It drives sharper than the sedan, but still won’t be confused with a sports car. Luxury touring in an it’s-all-about-me body.

2009 Honda Accord sedan :

Highs
A solid no-duh choice for price-conscious shoppers, range of engines and trim levels, uses regular gas.

Lows
Much larger than ever before, ubiquitous, nothing says “family car” more succinctly.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2008; unchanged this year.

Behind The Wheel
Accords are reliably more fun to drive than Camrys and others. This Accord feels huge but still retains its good road manners.

Capsule Review

Growing longer and wider with its 2008 redesign, the ever-popular Accord hits ’09 unchanged except for revised V-6 power figures. Available with auto or manual transmissions and a long list of packages and trims, the fine-handling Accord continues as our favorite big mid-sizer.

2009 Honda Odyssey:

Highs
Drives like a car, loads people and goods like a steamship, fuel-saving tech.

Lows
Not really mini, can reach $40k, not many deals available.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2005; EX-L trim gains power liftgate and Bluetooth.

Behind The Wheel
Wheeling around the biggest Honda takes care, especially in parking lots. On the highway, it’s a pleasure cruiser with comfort for adults and an entertainment system for kids.

Capsule Review

The big Odyssey minivan is anything but mini, with ample space for seven and a full menu of options and luxury baubles. The 3.5-liter V-6 provides good thrust, and the Odyssey experience remains one characterized by refined driving manners and impeccable build quality.

2009 Infiniti G37:

Although BMW still rules this class—entry-level luxury sports sedans and coupes—Infiniti keeps edging closer to parity with the Germans. A 2003, ’04, and ’07 10Best winner, the G returns for ’09, thanks in large measure to the sedan’s new 3.7-liter V-6 rated at 328 horsepower, an increase of 22 over the previous 3.5-liter six.

We’re not immune to the appeal of more power, of course, but there’s more to the G’s story than increased muscle. The powertrain team also improved the refinement of the V-6 and the engagements and feel of the six-speed manual transmission, putting it on par with, if not ahead of, the gearbox in BMW’s 3-series. Similarly, the chassis engineers have maintained the G’s agile handling while simultaneously taking the hard edge off the ride quality, a particularly welcome improvement in the firmer Sport edition.

The G coupe and sedan haven’t changed much visually (though a convertible version is due in mid-’09). But that’s not a demerit; styling has never been a weak suit. And the quality of interior appointments and features compares well with any car in this class. Also, the G37 still enjoys a price advantage over corresponding BMW 3-series models. Think 335i performance for 328i money.

VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, rear- or 4-wheel-drive, 4- or 5-passenger, 2-door coupe or 4-door sedan

BASE PRICE: $34,065–$36,715

ENGINE TYPE: DOHC 24-valve 3.7-liter V-6
Power (SAE net): 328 or 330 bhp @ 7000 rpm
Torque (SAE net): 269 or 270 lb-ft @ 5200 rpm

TRANSMISSIONS: 7-speed auto with manumatic shifting, 6-speed manual

DIMENSIONS:
Wheelbase: 112.2 in Length: 183.1–187.0 in Width: 69.8–71.8 in Height: 54.7–57.8 in
Curb weight: 3650–3850 lb

FUEL ECONOMY:
EPA city/highway driving: 17–18/25–26 mpg

2009 Jaguar XF:

In our first hands-on report concerning this new car [March 2008], we described the XF as “an athletic five-seater that defies ancient traditions.” That’s a key point, because Jaguar had been mired in a styling rut, perpetuating past designs to the point of irrelevance. We’ve heard a few pundits suggest the XF “doesn’t look like a Jaguar.” To which we say: Right, and none too soon.

Although there are elements from the XK sports car and the S-type sedan, the XF is essentially a new unibody, with distinctly higher platform rigidity than the S-type. It’s a little bigger than the S-type, on the same wheelbase, and a little roomier. Interior furnishings are quietly upscale, and there’s a sense of tailored comfort that’s common to high-end European sports sedans.

As pleasant as it is to behold, the XF’s most compelling attribute is outstanding dynamics. Power, from either the standard 4.2-liter V-8 or a supercharged 4.2-liter V-8, ranges from sufficient to stimulating, and the Jag’s responses to zigs and zags are gracefully feline.

This is the first Jaguar to appear on our 10Best Cars honor roll. We suspect it won’t be the last.

VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 4-door sedan

BASE PRICE: $49,975–$64,475

ENGINES: DOHC 32-valve 4.2-liter V-8, 300 hp, 310 lb-ft; supercharged and intercooled DOHC 32-valve 4.2-liter V-8, 420 hp, 413 lb-ft

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed auto with manumatic shifting

DIMENSIONS:
Wheelbase: 114.5 in Length: 195.3 in Width: 73.9 in Height: 57.5 in
Curb weight: 4100–4250 lb

FUEL ECONOMY:
EPA city/highway driving: 15–16/23–25 mpg

2009 Volkswagen GTI:

It’s been a quarter-century since the first GTI put an exclamation point on Volkswagen’s Rabbit lineup, and 25 years of continuous development through five generations have yielded a car that still defines the class it established in that other century.

VW’s robust 2.0-liter turbo four provides ample thrust, driving the front wheels through a six-speed manual transmission (standard) or, our choice, the slick paddle-shifted dual-clutch DSG automated manual.

But it’s the GTI’s rigid unibody that makes it such an agreeable partner, whether it’s the daily commute or a weekend back-road blast. Exemplary chassis rigidity allowed the development team to tune the suspension for a blend of precise response and smooth ride quality reminiscent of a car wearing BMW badges.

As an added bonus, GTI ownership includes an exceptionally high practicality factor. Like the Rabbit/Golf series on which it’s based, the GTI has grown over the years, growth that’s magnified by the versatility that’s shared by all hatchbacks. The option of three- or five-door body styles augments the practicality factor.

Practicality and fun in a small-scale, sporty German hatchback. It doesn’t get much better.

VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, front-wheel-drive, 5-passenger, 3- or 5-door hatchback

BASE PRICE: $23,640–$24,240

ENGINE TYPE: turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 16-valve 2.0-liter inline-4
Power (SAE net): 200 bhp @ 5100 rpm
Torque (SAE net): 207 lb-ft @ 1800 rpm

TRANSMISSIONS: 6-speed manual, 6-speed dual-clutch automated manual

DIMENSIONS:
Wheelbase: 101.5 in Length: 165.7 in Width: 69.3 in Height: 58.4 in
Curb weight: 3150–3250 lb

FUEL ECONOMY:
EPA city/highway driving: 21–22/29–31 mpg

2009 Porsche Boxster and Cayman:

The hallmark of a true sports car is how well it involves its driver in the driving. Although the Boxster and the Cayman differ in character—roadster versus hardtop—they’re alike in terms of how well they communicate every nuance of mechanical information to the pilots and how accurately they convert driver inputs into response. This is the essence of the car-and-driver connection, and few sports cars do it better.

Neither of these mechanically identical mid-engined cousins can be called inexpensive. Pricing for a basic Boxster, with a 245-hp, 2.7-liter flat-six, isn’t much under $50,000, and a loaded Cayman S easily surpasses $70,000. But we have yet to meet an owner who thinks his car isn’t worth the money.

This is the 10th 10Best appearance for the Boxster, and the third straight for the Cayman. Aside from several electronic comfort/convenience options—XM satellite radio and Bluetooth, iPod, MP3, and USB connectivity—both cars enter the 2009 model year unchanged. However, direct injection and dual-clutch automated manual gearboxes are expected to be on the list of mechanical particulars sometime in early ’09.

VEHICLE TYPE: mid-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 2-passenger, 2-door roadster or 3-door hatchback

ESTIMATED BASE PRICE: $47,000–$61,000

ENGINES: DOHC 24-valve 2.7-liter flat-6, 245 hp, 201 lb-ft; DOHC 3.4-liter flat-6, 295 hp, 251 lb-ft

TRANSMISSIONS: 5-speed auto with manumatic shifting, 5- or 6-speed manual

DIMENSIONS:
Wheelbase: 95.1 in Length: 171.6–172.1 in Width: 70.9 in Height: 50.9–51.4 in
Curb weight: 2900–3100 lb

FUEL ECONOMY:
EPA city/highway driving: 18–20/25–29 mpg

2009 Porsche Boxster:

Highs
Relatively affordable, steel-cut exhaust sounds, steering responds to a flick of the wrist.

Lows
Options make it pricey, less money can yield more power.

What’s New
Redesigned for 2005; direct-injection engines, a dual-clutch transmission, and minor styling tweaks for 2009.

Behind The Wheel
A perfect blend of brisk power, athletic suspension, mid-engine balance, and marvelous brakes.

Capsule Review

Some of the best miles we’ve turned were in Boxsters. The wee Porsche offers sharp steering, slick handling, and sweet sounds, and rotates around its center-mounted engine with a safecracker’s precision. Other ragtops have more luxury, but the line for drivers forms behind the Boxster.

The Bottom Line Do your research, follow these rules, avoid dealer tricks, and you can get a great deal.

I tend to like new cars because I know I won’t be buying someone else’s cast-off headache, and I can easily find the invoice price, dealer holdbacks, etc. on the internet to help me formulate a fair offer.

But my attitude recently changed when my husband decided it was time to put his old Neon out to pasture. I have a 2002 Pontiac Aztek, affectionately named “Canyonero,” that I love, and I’m constantly harping on the benefits of a larger vehicle with side airbags. Apparently it’s had some type of subliminal effect over the past two years, because he announced he was going for an Aztek.

He priced a new model, but realize that a used one would be at least ten grand cheaper, not to mention that the option packages on the older Aztek models are much more in line with what we like. Side airbags were standard in 2001 and 2002, but now it’s hard to find a 2004 that has ‘em because they are an option that most dealers seem to take a pass on.

RULE 1: KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR

As I mentioned in my intro, my husband knew that he was looking for an Aztek, and he knew exactly which options he wanted. This knowledge kept him from becoming the prey of salesmen who might entice him into something inappropriate or some lemon that’s been sitting on the lot for the last six months. This is something to know before you ever set foot on a dealer’s lot. Start out with internet research to narrow down the models you are interested in. Find friends who own those models or do some day rentals. Yes, that will cost you money, but think of it as an investment. Renting a couple of cars will cost a lot less than getting talked into a pricey vehicle that doesn’t fit your needs.

In our case, it was easy because I owned an Aztek. My husband was also considering a Vibe, Durango, and RAV4. We visit Florida a lot, so it was an easy matter to rent those models. After trying them, he narrowed his choice down to an Aztek because he didn’t like how the others drove.

RULE 2: RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH

In buying a used car, my initial fear was, “How will we know a good price?” Fear not…the internet is just as useful for the used car buyer as it is for those who buy new.

Our first stop was cars.com, where we got a list of all the used Azteks for sale within a 30 mile range of our home. You can narrow it down by price, year, etc., but since Azteks have only been produced since 2001, we wanted the full range. Most of the vehicles will be listed by dealers, although a few private owners were listed too. You’ll see price, mileage, VIN number, options, seller information, and often a photo of the vehicle, too. Now you can see the full range of vehicles and compare options and prices to get a ballpark figure.

Some dealers don’t list the price, and we learned to be wary of them. A phone call usually produced a response like, “What are you willing to pay?” Sorry, nothing to you, buddy! If you’re going to play games, you’re going to be eliminated from my search up front. We did visit one dealer that played the “no price” game because they were close to our house, and they were just as sleazy as you might imagine. We wanted to talk price, and they kept insisting that they only quote in terms of monthly payments (we’ll cover why you should never do that in rule 3).

Cars.com, coupled with a few phone calls, allowed us to narrow down our list and take the next research step. We took our short list and pulled a car fax report on each of the vehicles from carfax.com. It costs a bit, but it is well worth it. For example, we discovered the reason that one dealer had over half a dozen low mileage Azteks. On the phone, I was told they were lease returns. In reality, they were rental cars from Hawaii! Those at the other dealers turned out to be trade-ins, one-owner auction vehicles, or lease returns. Knowing this information in advance allowed us to judge the truthfulness of the dealers. The best ones already had their own car fax reports ready to show us.

We also pulled some prices from CarMax, the no-haggle superstore. They tend to be high, but it gave us another reference point. In addition, we visited Edmunds.com and pulled their True Market Value (TMV) for the vehicles on our list that we were most interested in. Lastly, my husband checked to see how much our insurance company would pay if the vehicle was totalled; you don’t want to pay $20,000 for a vehicle for which you’d only be reimbursed $15,000 if someone ran into you and destroyed it the next day.

RULE 3: ARRANGE YOUR FINANCING AHEAD OF TIME

So now you know what vehicle you want, where your prospects are located, and approximately how much you will be spending. If you are planning to finance the vehicle, DON’T count on the dealer to do it. Often, they will take onto the interest rate to fatten their profit. Talk to your own credit union or bank and get a pre-approved loan. That way, you can still see what the dealer has to offer, but if they can’t beat your own financing, you won’t have to worry about it.

This also allows you to avoid the “payment” game. Dealers prefer to quote monthly payments to you instead of a car’s bottom-line price because it’s easy to disguise an inflated number into payments stretched out over five, or even six, years. We had one salesman try to pull this, and he was totally stymied when we kept insisting, “We want a total price for the vehicle. The total price has nothing to do with financing, which we’ll discuss later.” We finally got a figure out of him, but I got the impression that most customers fall for the monthly payment routine. Don’t let yourself be one of them or it can cost you dearly.

If you are planning to pay cash, don’t let them know up front. Otherwise, if they know that they won’t have an opportunity to soak you on the loan, they might not be as flexible on the price of the car.

The same thing goes for a trade-in; never let them know if you’ll have one until after negotiations for the new car are complete. Actually, I made it a rule never, ever to trade in at a dealer because if you got a good price on your car, they will be sure to rape you on the trade amount. I’d rather just sell it outright. If you definitely want to do a trade, get an evaluation from CarMax, know the NADA and Kelly Blue Book figures, and see how much comparable vehicles are selling for. Otherwise, you can lose all the ground that you gained in your purchase negotiations.

RULE 4: SHOP ON A WEEKDAY AT THE END OF THE MONTH

Many people know that the end of the month is a good time to shop because the salesmen might be struggling to make their quotas. But they often choose to shop on the weekend because it’s more convenient, not realizing that a weeknight foray might result in a better deal.

On Saturday afternoons, popular dealerships are usually swarming with people. The salesmen have plenty of “ups” (customers) and won’t be as hungry to spend time wheeling and dealing with you if an easier-looking mark just walked in. But on weeknights, you can often walk in and be virtually the only customer. If the dealership hasn’t sold a car all day, they might be willing to cut a better deal.

RULE 5: DON’T GET CARRIED AWAY WITH EMOTION

Emotion is a salesman’s friend. He counts on it to make his job easier by letting you sell yourself on a car that you’ve fallen in love with. That’s why Rule 1 is so important. It’s a lot harder to get carried away when you know exactly what you want. It’s like going to the grocery store without a shopping list and getting enticed into buying lots of junk food.

In our case, my husband was very familiar with Azteks and knew the exact options he wanted. He had some color preferences, but there is no one color that he adores so much it would cause him to lose his senses. Since many of the dealers had multiple Azteks, that put us in a stronger position of power because we weren’t in love with a particular individual vehicle. Instead, we were taking the “commodity” approach, and if one dealership wouldn’t give us a good price, we could easily go to another one that had the exact same commodity.

In my research on dealer tricks, I read that a salesman always wants you to take a test drive because they believe the vehicle will sell itself and that it is the first step in getting you to take mental ownership. But this won’t happen if you’ve already tested the vehicle under neutral circumstances as described in step one, like renting it or borrowing it from a friend. Instead, you can spend the test drive concentrating on how well that particular car runs, if there are any strange noises, etc.

RULE 6: BE AWARE OF TYPICAL CAR DEALER GAMES

I won’t detail them here, as there are plenty of great resources that can be uncovered in a simple Google search. But before you ever leave for the dealership, you MUST read the article “Confessions of a Car Salesman” on edmunds.com. They sent a reporter undercover to work at two dealerships, and his report will amaze (and horrify) you.

Two of the games to be most aware of are 1) The control game. The salesman will want to maneuver you into a test drive and then into a little cubicle or office where the pressure can be applied. This is fine when you are serious about buying a vehicle, but don’t let them pulled any b.s. that gives them an upperhand. For example, they’re going to quote you some obnoxious beginning price that has no bearing on reality, knowing that you will give a counter offer. Then they like to go back and forth, getting you to bump up your offer a little bit each time.

I really don’t want to waste my time with that. My husband and I had done all of our research and wanted a bottom-line price. Most dealers could see that we weren’t playing games, as we had all our paperwork and printouts with us. But one (which ended up being the one that had the vehicle we liked best), dragged things out for an hour. They’re lucky we didn’t just get up and walk, which is what I advise you to do if they start that routine. Whenever the salesman says he has to go see his manager, say, “If you’re not back in five minutes, I’m going to leave because my time is valuable.” Then get up from the cubicle or office and wander around the showroom or lot. I guarantee that it will light a fire under his feet.

The salesman at the place with the car we liked best asked for our bottom line price “to buy it today.” Normally, we take a night to think it over, but we had been shopping all week and had seen enough vehicles to know the car was a real cream puff. It was a 2002 Aztek that was the identical twin of mine. It had my husband’s preferred options and only 13,000 miles on it. It had been owned by the son of the dealer (confirmed by carfax and other paperwork). It was also a GM certified vehicle, which gives you a three day return option and a 3 month, 3000 mile warranty, whether or not there is any factory warranty left.

In this case, we were willing to buy on the spot if the deal was great. Normally, though, take a day to think about it unless you have done lots of research and are one hundred and ten perfect sure that you have found the right vehicle.

This leads us into the next game: Bumping. As I mentioned earlier, the salesman will run back and forth with figures, playing good cop/bad cop with the general manager. They count on the fact that people will give a lower total than they are really willing to go and see how much they can bump you up. In our case, this was ineffective because we’d done enough shopping around to know how much we would pay, and it wasn’t negotiable.

We gave our figure, and even though we wouldn’t budge, the salesman dicked around for an hour. We would definitely have left, but we weren’t in a hurry and I wanted to see how far they would drag it out before they saw we wouldn’t budge. At first, I thought they were going to stick to their guns. The General Manager came out and said, “There’s no way we can sell you that vehicle for that price, but we have some formal rental vhehicles you might be interested in.” After laughing in his face, I said, “I told you, I am interested in that one vehicle. I gave you our bottom line price, and if it’s not acceptable, we’re going to continue our shopping elsewhere.” Just as we stepped through the doorway, the price suddenly WAS acceptable, and the vehicle is now ours.

RULE 7: DON’T LET YOUR GUARD DOWN UNTIL YOU’RE OUT THE DOOR

We didn’t get a hard sell in the finance/insurance (F&I) office because I think they had figured out that we knew our stuff and weren’t going to go for any b.s. We had arranged our own financing, so it was only a matter of completing the papers. But normally, although most people don’t realize it, the F&I person is just another salesman who wanted to pad the back end of the deal as much as possible. If you have arranged your own financing, this will eliminate a good bit of the game. But they have plenty of other mostly-worthless items to hit you up with, like paint protector (not needed on modern cars) and fabric protectant (you can do the same thing yourself with a $5 can of Scotch Guard). Don’t fall for any of this; the only thing you should do in this office is sign the papers, NOT make additional purchases.

There is one thing that you might want to consider. Some people swear by them, while others say they are a waste of money: an extended warranty.

Personally, I like them, especially for a used car. If it does turn out to be a lemon, I’m not stuck with the repair costs. But there is no reason to pay $1000 to $2000 or more for one, especially since the cost to the dealer is a mere fraction of that amount. I never, ever buy this item in the F&I office. Instead, I ask that it be thrown in as a deal-closer, and so far I’ve never been refused (even though they usually try to resist at first).

In our Aztek quest, most of the dealers were willing to include the warranty in their bottom line price. But at the last one, with our cream puff, they were totally resistant and tried to convince me that the warranty had to be purchased separately, after we made a deal on the car. They also ran a line of crap about the cost and how $1100 would be a huge bargain.

I held firm on the fact that the other dealers had included it, and although it took a long tme, I eventually got a top-of-the-line GM warranty tossed into the deal at my bottom-line price. Now, I won’t have to worry about spending more than $100 (the deductible) for any repair over the next four years.

A word of caution about warranties: there are “aftermarket companies” that offer them, and some are very good and reliable. But if at all possible, try to get one through the manufacturer.

RULE 8: ENJOY YOUR NEW VEHICLE!
If you follow these rules, do your research, shop around, and hold firm on your price, you will find the right vehicle for you.

Of course, when you are a careful shopper, you may have to brace for temporary dissapointment. There was one lovely 2001 ‘Tek that my husband fell in love with. It was well taken care of, fully equipped, and in great shape, and the salesman gave us a great bottom-line offer. But it was early in our quest, and my husband wanted to think about it and look at some more vehicles. According to carfax, the car he was interested in had been on the lot several weeks, so surely a couple more days wouldn’t matter.

It was sold the next day!!

Yes, it was a dissapointment, but that wasn’t the only cream puff in the world, as we discovered a few days later when we found the vehicle we ultimately bought. The first one would have been a good deal, but I think we got more benefits from shopping around.

This experience also taught me that my next vehicle is going to be used. My husband’s Aztek is the same year as mine, but because he bought it two years later, it cost $10,000 less. He still has a nice, long warranty on it, just like I have on my new one. My vehicle has depreciated by $10,000, and he used that appreciation to his advantage. As long as you follow the rules and do your research, used can be a great option.

Top 5 Tips to Save You Money When Buying a Used Car!

Tip 1: Where to shop; do you go to a major dealership or to “Smilin’ Sam’s Honest/Reliable Used Automobile Emporium?”

My advice is to steer-clear of the independent dealer… UNLESS you know him or several people who have had satisfactory dealings with him… The vast majority of used cars on the market come from TWO places… Dealership Trade-ins and “Program Vehicles”…

You know what a Trade-in is… you might even have one… (if you do, don’t forget to read Tip 4… Program Vehicles are cars or trucks that have been either on short-term lease (6 months up to 3 years) to businesses or rental agencies. These vehicles are often a decent buy because they have been reconditioned and usually have a portion of their factory warranty left. They are not always a good value, however, because often times they are auctioned to dealerships. Depending on the vehicle, you may get a great deal or pay thru the nose… be sure to know what features you want and what features you can live without.

Trade-ins are simply the vehicles that others have traded in… sometimes innocently to get a new vehicle, other times to get a lemon off of their hands! Usually a prominent dealership will only keep the best of the best on their used car lot. What happens to the rest?

They are sold to wholesalers who then pawn them off on mom & pop/buy here & pay here lots!

So… am I saying you can’t get a good car from a independent car dealer? NO!… but I am saying that the more prominent dealerships in town have already bet against that car being a good value!

Bottom Line: The LARGE Dealership has a LARGE Reputation to Protect. There is too much money tied up with the manufacturer they represent to allow themselves to become suspect in their used car dealings. I know of one Prominent dealership in my hometown where a woman had her used car rebuilt one complaint at a time because the dealership cared more about their reputation than they did about the lunacy of what the deal was costing them!

Tip 2: Never, Never, Never, “take their word for it…” Rarely if ever does the Used Car salesman know the history of the car he’s selling. If he knows anything, it’s probably not true. Managers will “feed” their gullible salespeople lies about the quality of a car, knowing that the salesperson will trumpet it proudly to the unsuspecting consumer. (I sold a new car once to a client on the basis that it had been a “show-car” at the Chicago trade show… it sported a new color scheme to the model, and I bought into the fabrication… hook, line, and sinker. When I sold the car, the manager stood there after the client left and laughed himself silly that the “fact” he had made up sold the car!)

At another dealership, the “aftermarket manager” would glean all he could about the client before meeting him… either from the salesman, or from eavesdropping on the salesman’s conversations with the client… then he would “morph” into a kindred spirit… I listened to his speech about how he’d been wounded in ‘Nam during his tour of duty and weave a wonderful tale… only to find out afterward that he was never in the military after all… but he’d seen the client’s car with a POW/MIA bumper sticker…

Don’t believe them… they are not your friends. The sales and management of any dealership is there simply to make as much money off of you as they can legally… maybe not even legally, if they think they won’t get caught… The only way to prevent being taken is to “GET IT IN WRITING”… and before you sign anything!

Tip 3:How much is too much? Good question.

On New Cars, it’s easy to know what the dealership is making off of you. The invoice is easy to attain… either from the dealer himself or over the internet. Once you know how much “hold back” they have, you can make an intelligent offer on their vehicle using a certain amount over invoice as your benchmark. However when it comes to used cars, there is no such availability. Three virtually identical cars might be on the lot, and they might have paid three totally different prices for each one. Why would they do that? Usually because the guy they paid the least to knew the least going in to his negotiations.

His Loss Should Be Your Gain.

The biggest thing to know going in is the approximate value of the used car you are seeking. Again, the handy tool called the internet is useful; “blue book’s” are useful; and knowing what are add-on’s for the price and what are delete’s is helpful. Does one of those three cars have excessive mileage… 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year is considered normal today… so if you’re looking at a 2 year old car with 40,000 miles, the price better reflect the excessive driving.

Is the vehicle availble with a standard and an automatic transmission option. If so, the automatic will be an add on or the standard will be a delete… depending on vehicle.

Engine size, type of sound-system, power windows or manual… all of these are potntial fluctiations in a used car’s price, just like they are on a new vehicle…

Know which options you have to have… but remember it will be more difficult to find a car “just the way you want it” in the used car market. The dealer will tell you… “There is no used car factory…” But that doesn’t mean you need to pay thru the nose for something you don’t want. There are more cars and more dealers down the street if you can’t find something you like there… or if the dealer tries to rape your wallet in the process…

Tip 4: Trade In’s. Almost as many cars are traded in during a used car purchase as are during a new vehicle transaction. Of course, they are usually less desireable and rarely will find their home on a reputable dealerships lot. But the same truths about trade in’s that I spoke of in giving you tips for New Car shopping hold true here as well…

The Sales Manager is going to give your trade-in the once over. He is going to shake his head sadly and point generally at the supposed “flaws” in your trade in. All the things he can’t see on the car he is selling you he will see on the one you are in essence selling him! He is going to offer you a trade in value/appraisal that is going to have been padded for the sake of negotiations. IF you accept his appraisal at face value, he’s just made the company and himself and the salesman their shares of the hundreds of dollars he has under-offered you. IF you shake your head sadly and make gestures like you might leave, he will up the ante for your car or to prove his appraisal was “genuine” he might find a couple of hundred of dollars to knock off of the sale vehicle. Either way, you are the winner.

Any sales manager worth his salt has added that cushion to the appraisal. They might use terms like “I’ve given all the money”, but the truth is they know they have held back, and they will make a show of “shopping the wholesalers” to get a better offer… and generally act surprised that one of the wholesalers offered what you wanted…

DO NOT LEAVE MONEY ON THE TABLE!

Tip 5:Financing your Used Car. As a general rule, used cars are not financed for as long as a new car. So just because you are buying a used vehicle you may be paying as much or more per month as you would for a new one. Be sure to consider that when deciding what your budget needs are.

Like with a new car, a used car customer should be “pre-approved” by their own financial lending institution if at all possible to keep them from the mercy of the “finance manager.” The dealership’s finance manager lives for one thing… to make money for himself and his dealerhsip. When he comes to you and says he got your loan approved at 8.3%, what he means is he got it approved at 7.9% and has added .4% for the dealership. It’s called “back-end” money and he makes a tidy portion of it. The salesman might make a piece of it, if he sells enough cars, and the dealership will make a nice piece of it.

If you are pre-approved by your own bank, they can’t make it!

If he wants to shop you anyway, let him. What harm can it do; if he comes back with a rate lower than what you got, go for it. Who cares, then, if he’s making money because he just saved you some! But if at all possible, have a good rate already pre-approved… you’re then in a win-win situation.

There are less after-market items to worry about in the used car market, but your car still might qualify for an extended warranty. Like with new cars, the more it covers, the more it costs. Of all the offered items, I swear by extended warranties, and if at all possible, opt for the most coverage for the longest time! However, beware… they are going to try to make a “hit” on you for that too. Different companies have different programs, but a “good” finance/business manager will try to add on to the rate… he’s not doing his job if he doesn’t; and you’re not doing yours if you don’t know that!

Hopefully these 5 tips will help you save money on your next used car purchase.

Top Tips For Buying A Brand New Car

Years ago, things were much simpler than they were now when it came to buying a new car. You’d simply go to the local dealer, select a model from the range in the showroom and then buy. Now though, when it comes to buying new, there is a much wider range to choose from – not least in terms of where to buy. So let’s take a look at this first.

Where To Buy
Franchised dealers of the brand that you’re looking to buy are now more competitive than they used to be – not least due to the rise in competition. Franchised dealers also tend to be very well represented, meaning you shouldn’t have to travel very far to find one. They’ll tend to offer a part-exchange service though you won’t get best price. Warranties of 3 years are typical, though some will offer more.

My experience of franchised dealers: Most expensive, but in this day and age they are far more willing to negotiate than previously. If you’re looking for nearly-new they’ll offer extremely low mileage cars. The easiest way to access brand new vehicles.

UK brokers source cars from franchised dealers but then bulk-buy in order to get big discounts. The best should offer these discounts to the customer, giving a deal on a new (or almost new, i.e. last of model line) that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else. Brokers should also be able to match services such as low-interest finance or free insurance if offered by the franchise they purchase from.

My experience of UK brokers: Good service, many cars of the same type so you might find it easy to get ‘that particular colour’. You may not be able to spec up a car and then have it due to the way that UK brokers operate.

Car supermarkets are independent (or at least they should be, though some may feature special deals from certain manufacturers) traders with a wide range of models. They will often offer cheaper cars as they have lower overheads, whilst pre-registered imports can be great for those hunting a bargain. Under the same roof, there’ll be a range of almost-new and used cars too.

My experience of car supermarkets: A good range of cars at varying prices, many of which are low mileage. If you want to see a range of models across a range of manufacturers, then this is your place. Even at a supermarket prices can be high, though the lowest of the three here. Least likely to offer an absolutely brand new vehicle.

As a word of caution, don’t automatically assume you’ll get better service levels from any one of these places. Talk to someone who’s already shopped where you’re thinking of buying, if at all possible. Remember, as soon as dealers hand over the keys it’s then that you’re dealing with a different animal. Try to rebuild a rapport with the Sales Manager, be polite and friendly and you should do fine.

Generally its the second most expensive purchase we make, so it pays to do everything you can to get the best possible deal.

Despite all the news headlines about the credit crunch and rising fuel prices, in 2007 there were just over 2.4 million new car registrations, an increase of 2.5% on the previous year.

The most important thing is to do your homework. Work out how big a vehicle do you need, what size engine, and what type of fuel would be most efficient for you. Draw up a shortlist of the cars you are interested in.

Then, buy some independent car magazines – these compare the various models taking into consideration important points such as running costs and re-sale values. Spending a few quid at the newsagents could save you cash in the long run.

Go to the garages and see the cars up close and personal. They may be different to how you’d imagine. Look on the internet and see if there are any deals on offer on your chosen model – if you can’t decide between two different cars then this may help you to make up your mind!
WHERE SHOULD I BUY IT FROM?

There are a variety of places to consider. Nowadays you can buy a car from absolutely anywhere. I suggest that if you wanted to buy a car from a dealership, it may be better to go to one outside town rather than in the city centre.

Many experiences has shown that you may get a better deal that way because in centrally located garages they can be a bit blasé – if you walk out without buying anything there will be another potential buyer along behind you.

Another place I would suggest looking into was a car broker. As they buy in bulk from the dealerships they qualify for fleet discounts. They then pass some of this discount on to the customer. Brokers can be found on the internet or in the back of various car magazines.

The downside to using a broker though is that there isn’t any real follow up – they just sell cars. So you wouldn’t get the after-sales service you may get using a dealership.

HOW TO PAY

Once you have decided what car you want, there are a whole load of choices about how to pay for it.

First, cold hard cash. Sometimes a salesman will give you a good deal if you have all the readies, and there’s no part exchange involved. But not all of us have that kind of money tucked away under the mattress so if you’ve got a good credit rating you could shop around for a personal loan with a decent interest rate.

That way you are effectively buying the car for cash and that often gets you the better deal. Look on loan comparison sites on the internet to see what’s on offer. If you decide to go for the dealer’s finance – otherwise known as “hire purchase”, then it’s worth remembering that you don’t actually own the car until ALL the payments have been made.

But, could you get them to offer you a 0% deal? It’s worth asking and often achievable if you put down a larger deposit. That means you won’t pay any interest on your purchase at all! Remember, as with all money matters, make sure that you’ve read and understood the terms and conditions before you sign on the dotted line.
TRICKS OF THE TRADE

One of the most important things is to take any car you’re thinking of buying for a test drive.

If your commute to work involves a motorway, take it on the motorway, rather than just drive it around the block. Try and spend as much time as possible behind the wheel and ideally without a salesman with you.

“Some dealerships are now doing a twenty four hour test drive, some are even offering weekend test drives where you get to take the car home for a couple of days.” So it’s well worth asking if your garage is willing to consider this.

Another thing to look out for is whether the model of car you are interested in is going to be discontinued soon. Is there a new model coming out? If so, that might mean that the manufacturer or the dealer is going to want to clear their stock of the older model so you may find a good deal there.

For example, this year a new shape Ford Fiesta is due out, so there may be price reductions on the old model.

Think about buying your car out of season. December for example is a great month to buy a car as very few people think of doing so towards the end of the year.

Motorists who hope to reduce their CO2 emissions have no need to compromise when buying a new car. Simply choose a more fuel efficient version of a car that fits your needs and you’ll be well on your way to reducing your carbon footprint. The more fuel efficient the car, the less fuel it burns, so the less CO2 it produces. If everyone buying a brand new car chose the most fuel efficient car in its class, CO2 emissions from new cars could be reduced by up to 24 per cent and save up to three months worth of fuel per year.

1. Consider the car you want
2. The engine matters
3. Petrol or diesel?
4. Look for the label
5. Ask about fuel efficiency
6. Be a smarter driver

Find a fuel efficient car that’s right for you

Six useful tips when buying a car

1. Consider the car you want

In very general terms, smaller cars tend to be more fuel efficient and emit less CO2, so ask yourself questions about what you want the car for. Do you really need six seats for a family of four? Could you make do with a smaller boot if you only use the car for shopping?

2. The engine matters

Once you’ve decided on the type of car, check out the different makes, models and engine options. Most models offer a range of engines that vary in fuel efficiency and CO2 emissions.

Top 10 fuel efficient cars

3. Petrol or diesel?

Petrol pumpPetrol and diesel engines have different effects on the environment. Engines powered by diesel generally produce less CO2 but more air pollutants than their petrol counterparts. But which one should you choose? As a rule of thumb, if most of the driving you do is long distance or motorway driving, then consider a diesel engine for fuel efficiency and lower CO2 emissions. On the other hand, if you spend more time in town, where air quality is a greater consideration, then a petrol engine may be better suited.

4. Look for the label

Fuel economy labelMost new cars in a car showroom have a colour-coded fuel efficiency rating like fridges and washing machines (like the one shown, right). The coding is from band A to band G, with bands A and B representing cars that emit the least CO2, as well as having lower car tax. The lower the emission band, the lower the tax you’ll pay. The label is also a guide to the running costs you can expect for that car over 12,000 miles, so you can compare how much different cars cost to run.

5. Ask about fuel efficiency

Ask your car sales staff about the efficiency and environmental performance of your chosen car and the helpful extras available. For example, ‘particulates’ are emissions released when fuel is burned that are harmful to local air quality. But on some cars an optional extra called a DPF (diesel particulate filter) can be fitted to reduce these emissions from diesel engines. As petrol cars produce fewer particulates, filters are not generally needed for petrol engines.

6. Be a smarter driver

There are smarter ways to drive your car that help to improve fuel efficiency and reduce CO2 emissions. The smarter driving tips offer useful suggestions you can put into practice to help you cut down.

Welcome to the world’s best free car buying guide for buying new cars, used cars, auto leasing and avoiding car buying scams.

You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, you’ll buy a car. There are copycat sites with similar names who paraphrase our content, but we are the original and the best. This 100% FREE site is about truth, but few people want you to know the truth about buying cars and SUVs.

Guide to Buying a New Car

This article is for general information about buying a new car only. If you need specifics on the process or paperwork required in your state, please refer to our Title Transfers or Buying and Selling FAQs page.

Why New?

Buying a car “fresh off the lot” is a goal for many, and has somehow become a rite of passage in the American psyche. Once we get to the point in our career where we feel secure enough to be able to afford a new car, we begin to consider the possibility. A new car is more than a status symbol, it also acts as a validation that we have “made it,” an endorsement of some measure of our success.

While some people are content to buy and drive secondhand cars throughout their driving days, most people will purchase a new car at least one time in their lives. Others are convinced that buying new is the only way to buy a car and they will do so time and again every few years.

Before you even begin to think too deeply about buying a new car, take some time to consider why you want to buy a new car. If you have a partner, you’ll want to think this decision through first–and then go to them with the idea. Expect some healthy questioning from them about the reasons you want to buy a new car, and be willing to negotiate (and perhaps postpone) the decision for the good of the family if necessary.

As you go through this preliminary brainstorming step, you will want to determine why you want to buy a new car. There are a myriad of good reasons to do so, but some of the primary reasons are listed below:

Prestige: Let’s face it; buying a new car can do a lot for your image (and ego). Your choice of make, model, extras, and even car color speaks volumes about who you are and how you see yourself in our society. It also makes a statement to friends and family members. The appeal of a new car is heady from a psychological perspective, but don’t over think it too much. If you’ve worked hard to get to the position of being able to afford a new car, enjoy it–you’ve earned it!

Technology: New cars offer the latest in engineering, style and mechanical innovation. The manufacturers compete to offer the very best in their new makes and models. Fuel efficiency and emissions control improvements can be appealing to those who are concerned with environmental issues. Because the makers continually improve and add technological advances in their newest models, those who appreciate the state of the art are drawn to the cutting edge components of a new car.

Safety: Along the same lines as above, manufacturers continue to make improvements on safety features. The inclusion of such features as side air bags and other features are only available on the latest models. Many families choose to purchase the latest models in order to best protect their children and themselves.

Reliability: New cars provide an element of worry-free driving for an extended period of time. Drivers of new cars appreciate the peace of mind that a new, mechanically sound vehicle provides. Guarantees, warranties and the newer extended warranties ensure that owners of new cars will be spared the expense of costly repairs for several years to come. With the advent of computerized systems on cars, gone are the days of the backyard mechanic; many women and men who never signed up for auto shop find the reliability factor in a new car especially appealing.

Once you have determined that you want to buy a new car (and why you do), you are ready to move along to the next step:
Take a Look at the Bank Account

Only you can decide how much you can afford to pay for a new car. The desire to own a new car cannot be allowed to overwhelm the practical considerations of your budget. Take off the rose-colored glasses?now is the time to take a brutally honest look at your finances.

Many financial experts state that you should spend no more than 20% of your net income on a monthly car payment. To determine what that number is, you’ll need to figure your total net income (take home pay after taxes) and then subtract all your fixed expenses. The remaining amount is your net spendable income. By figuring that out, you can then determine what 20% will be in dollars and cents.

Once you know that number, you can answer three important questions:

How much can you afford as a down payment?

How much can you afford in monthly payments?

How much should you spend on the total price?

While you are working this out, be aware that there will be costs over and above the price of the car itself that will need to be factored in such as insurance, sales taxes, licensing fees, and possibly dealer fees payable at the time of purchase (more about these later).

Both the state sales tax rate and the state licensing fees will vary depending on where you live. Once you know how much you can afford to spend for the total price of the vehicle, calculate those figures based on your state’s rates. Those expenses can inflate the total cost of the car beyond your budget, and may require you to shop for a less expensive model.

Many lending and car selling websites offer a loan calculator tool to use online. Before ever stepping into a dealer showroom, run the numbers based on the price of the car, the taxes and licensing fees, any other closing fees you may anticipate, and the rate that you expect to get for financing. Once you know those figures, you will know what your probable monthly payment will be.

In addition to the budgetary considerations, you’ll now also want to take a close look at your lifestyle before shopping for a new car. Job security and life stability should come into play before you decide to buy a new car. For example, if you are new on the job or having difficulties in your marriage, your financial future may be changing soon. Before signing a contract for payments for the next several years, be absolutely sure that your career and lifestyle will be able to support such a decision.

After taking a serious look at how much money you can afford for a new car, it is time to fix a price. Write it down and take that number with you when you go to the dealership. Having that number firmly in your mind will help you stay within your budget despite the best efforts of a car salesperson to upgrade you to a more expensive model or tacking on extra features that will increase the total price.

Once you know how much you can reasonable afford for a new car, it is time to do some shopping?with your eyes only. Now is the time to see what is out there in your price range, and which makes and models will best suit your needs. Make a list of makes and models and features you want to consider and then do some searching.

Some of the places you can look at new cars include:

Newspapers: Most local newspapers run special articles, supplements and ads at least one day of the week. Many times larger cities run special car features on Saturday, and of course, the Sunday edition will be a good source to check out the dealers’ ads for new cars.

TV: Now is the time to stop zoning out during commercials and begin taking a hard look at what is out there. You’ll see the vehicles at their sexiest, of course, but after awhile you will likely see and hear about a make or model that especially appeals to your taste.

Talk to friends: Let your family and friends know that you are planning to buy a new car. Once you open that discussion, it is likely that they will offer suggestions on what type of car and which make of car they have had particularly good (or bad) experience with. Listen to what they have to say, but keep in mind that this is anecdotal information only; your experience with a certain car may turn out to be quite different. If nothing else, they may recommend a dealer where they had a particularly positive buying experience.

Online: The Internet is a terrific place to do some window-shopping for a new car. Nowadays, there are thousands of websites that offer cars for sale.

Spending some time browsing through the cars on the market, including the prices and available options, is a great way to decide which car you want to buy?

All from the comfort of your own home without dealing with any high-pressure sales tactics.

Dealerships: Eventually, you will need to stop by a showroom or two. There is no substitute for actually seeing and sitting in a new vehicle, and taking a brochure on a specific model home to review will only increase your knowledge of the car and available options. If you think you might be swept away in a buying frenzy, be sure to leave your checkbook at home during the first visit.

The time spent on this step narrows the field of cars you are interested in, and brings you to the next invaluable step:
Serious Research Time

Hopefully, by this time you have decided on an affordable price range, and have chosen two or three models to concentrate on through the research process.

This is the time to bring out all your study and research skills. In today’s world, most people will conduct this research online on a home computer, but much of the information is also available at the newsstand or your local library.

In addition to comparing prices and features through car shopping sites, there are a number of other types of sites you should spend some time browsing:

Consumer reports:

There are numerous non-profit and for-profit organizations that compile and report on new cars on the Internet. Many of these sites will rate new vehicles, providing information on pricing, reliability, fuel economy, dimensions and performance. Some sites will provide side-by-side comparisons should you be trying to decide between two or more models. Try Consumer Reports or ConsumerGuide for example.

Safety records:

Since you are planning to buy a new car, why not ensure that the model you purchase is as safe as it can be on the road? Take few minutes to review the safety reports provided about your model. Many websites offer this sort of information, perhaps most popular is the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety

(IIHS), although there are many others to search. In addition to safety performance reports, you should also check some of these sites for any safety recalls issued on the models you are shopping for.

Resale values:

Most people have heard that a new car loses tremendous value the minute you drive it off the lot. While this is true, there are makes and models that are known to retain a higher percentage of value after the time of purchase. Many websites and articles review which models retain the best resale value, why not take a few minutes and see where the car of your choice sTachs up against the other contenders? Finding this information may not change your mind about which model to buy, but at least you will know what the potential resale value of your car will likely be should you decide to sell or trade it in after a short period of time. One tried-and-true source for resale value is Kelley Blue Book

Insurance rates:

Your choice of car will determine how much your current insurance rates will be affected. If you have a good relationship with your current insurance agent, now is a good time to give them a call. If you have narrowed your choices down enough, they will be able to provide a quote for your new insurance rates based on what car you plan to buy and your driving record. If for some reason you’d rather not contact your current insurer, you can always get comparison quotes by major insurance carriers over the Internet. Visit our Guide to Auto Insurance for a list of auto insurance companies who can offer you a free quote.

Once all your background research has been compiled, you’ll want to consider the next step:
Online or at the Dealership?

The newest way to buy a new car is to buy via the Internet. Hundreds of car-selling sites provide the services where you simply choose all the specifications of the vehicle you are looking for, and they will do the legwork to find such a car in your immediate area. While this method of car buying may still be in its infancy, it may be particularly useful to those with little time?and an adventurous spirit. Before committing to this method of car buying, however, be sure to read and thoroughly understand the small print on the agreement.

For most car shoppers, the trip to a dealership is inevitable. If you have seriously crunched your budget and have a firm price in mind, and if you have done your research, you should anticipate a successful buying trip. The vast majority of car sellers are on the up-and-up and they want to make the process of buying a car as easy as possible for both parties involved.

A strong dose of self-confidence is in order, however, for that first trip to the lot. You don’t want to get talked into more of a car, and more of a monthly payment, than you have planned for should you run into a high-pressure salesperson. When you are ready, here are a few hints that may help the whole process go more smoothly and perhaps help get you the best deal:

Time of day:

There are two schools of thought on this issue: some experts advise going to the dealership first thing in the morning, others suggest coming in toward the end of the day. If you are at your best first thing, then by all means shop early in the day. The salesperson may be looking for a jump-start to a terrific day of sales, and you may come away with a great deal. On the other hand, if you still have one eye closed until after noon, don’t rush yourself. Many a great deal has been cut right before closing time because the salesperson or dealer want one more sale for that day’s books.

Day of the month:

Traditional wisdom says that some of the very best days to buy a new car are at the end of the month because the dealership and sales force want to eke out the best end-of-month figures they can.

End of the year:

October used to be the month to buy a new car in anticipation of the new models’ arrival in November. While many car manufacturers still adhere to that traditional schedule, many carmakers now stagger their new models’ issue date. If you have done your homework, you will know when the new models will arrive.

Plan to shop for your new car just prior to the new cars coming out. You may not find everything you want (like a certain color), but you may drive away with a new car at a very good price.

Special promotions:

Once you know which make and model car you are going to buy, start watching the media for national or local promotions and sales. A drop in interest rates or bonus add-on feature offers for a limited time may just be the incentive you’ve been waiting for to decide to shop at a particular dealer.

Weather:

During inclement weather, new car sales drop off significantly. While conducting business in a driving hailstorm may not be your idea of a good time, if you’re ready to purchase that new car, going to the dealership on a less than perfect day may just save you some money.

Remember that if at any time you feel overwhelmed by the experience, or begin to feel as though you are being treated dishonestly, discourteously, or unfairly?walk away. There are many car dealerships to choose from right around the corner. If, however, you are being treated right, it is time to move along to the next step:
Get Down to Brass Tacks

You’ve chosen which dealership to visit because of the model of cars it sells. Once on the lot, you will be assigned a salesperson to show you the cars they offer. The initial contact with that salesperson is likely to dictate how the entire transaction will be conducted. Their job is to ask some opening questions to ascertain what type of vehicle you are shopping for and in what price range. Your job is to come across as a qualified, educated consumer. If you are adamant about buying a particular model, let them know that right away; if not, tell them which type of vehicle and your price range. Now is also the time to let them know if you have any specific requirements, such as 4-wheel drive or automatic transmission.

The salesperson will guide you to the specific model you are interested in, or some comparable models. Every car will have a “spec sheet” visible that lists the features of that particular car. Now would be a good time to pull out your research file to compare the cars’ listings with your list of predetermined choices. Review the equipment offered on each vehicle until you find a suitable match.

Of course, while you are looking at vehicles and considering their equipment and features, you will also be keeping an eye on the sticker price. A quick review of the components of a specification sheet will help you understand exactly what you will be seeing:

Vehicle description:

This top section will give you the year, make, model and VIN number of this particular vehicle. It also lists the size and weight of the car, engine size, passenger capacity, color, body style, interior treatment, and kind of transmission.

Standard equipment:

Here is where you will find the type of basic equipment that comes standard on this car. These features listed will detail features such as air conditioning and heating, safety belts, sound systems and length of warrantee.

Manufacturer suggested retail price:

The manufacturer suggested retail price (MSRP) is rather like a subtotal. This is the price of the vehicle before the destination charges and any optional equipment included on this particular vehicle.

Optional equipment:

Within this section, you will find what special features this specific car comes equipped with, including such things as: sport packages; tilt steering wheels; cruise control; arm rests; power windows; floor mats; specialized brakes; and air bags. This is where the price usually escalates quickly; if you don’t want these special features, ask to see a barebones model.

Destination charges:

This fee is the cost of shipping the vehicle from the manufacturing plant to the dealership. While this cost is passed along to the buyer and there is no way to get around it, this fee should be the same on all stickers at the same dealership.

Fuel economy:

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) determines the standards for mileage ratings. Listed on the window sticker will be both the highway and city mileage per gallon (MPG). Remember that these numbers are estimates only and many factors go into the gas mileage you will actually receive.

Total retail price:

The total retail price includes the standard features, the optional equipment, the MSRP, and destination charges. Remember that this number does not include all applicable taxes, car registration, or title fees.

Once you are satisfied that you have found a car that appeals to you, has the features you are looking for, and is within your price range, it is time to

move on to the next step:
Road Trip

No one would ever consider buying a new car without taking it out for a spin. All dealers expect you to want to drive the car, and they will likely do their level best to get you behind the wheel and onto the street.

Many dealerships will schedule appointments for a test drive over the phone. Remember to bring with you your driver’s license and proof of current insurance, it is expected that the dealer will need a copy of these documents before allowing you to drive their vehicles.

If you are already at the dealership, and become interested in a certain vehicle, take a few minutes to sit in the vehicle. Check to see if the car “fits” you. Does the car provide maximum visibility from the front, sides and the rear? Are all controls within easy reach? Is the driver’s seat comfortable and suitable for long-distance driving? Now is the time to pay particular attention to creature comforts; the bottom line should be whether the primary driver feels safe and comfortable.

When you find a car that suits you, take it for a test drive. Understand that the salesperson will be going along for the ride. Normally, the salesperson will drive the car off the lot and take you on a routine route. At some point, they will pull over and allow you to get behind the wheel.

Take the time to get comfortable behind the wheel before pulling out from the curb. Adjust your seats and mirrors to provide maximum visibility for your body, and familiarize yourself with the location of critical features such as: the horn, turn signals, windshield wipers, emergency flashers, and parking brake. As you begin to drive, reach over and turn off any music system; you will want to listen to the engine and be able to hear any unusual noises.

If your style of driving includes anything out of the norm, ask that you be allowed to duplicate that to see how it will handle. Always take a car onto the highway to determine the strength of acceleration; test the braking system; and drive up hills to check out the engine capacity.

It is likely that as you are driving, the salesperson will be both touting the benefits of this particular car and asking you some leading questions. Besides needing to concentrate on driving an unfamiliar car, it is best to stay non-committal about a potential sale during the test drive; once you get back to the dealership, you can get down to “brass tachs” if you are ready to buy the car. If you are ready to seal the deal, you are ready for the next step:
Moment of Commitment

So, you’ve found the car of your dreams with all the features you want at the price you want to pay. What comes next? Actually the steps leading to the moment of commitment is for many people, the most difficult. This is the time when you will hammer out the price of the car. It is also the time to discuss financing with your salesperson if you haven’t already arranged private financing.

In most cases, the salesperson will create a worksheet where they will write down the particulars of the car being negotiated and will probably pencil in their first price. Both parties expect a certain amount of negotiation at this point. After making your initial offer, the salesperson may counter offer or they may remove themselves to discuss your offer with the sales manager. At some point, they will come back to you with another offer; after all, they are in the business of selling cars.

It is not uncommon for these offers and counters to take some time. Relax, and don’t feel pressured to accept any deal that you are not completely comfortable with. While some consumer advocates encourage buyers to stage some theatrics should the deal not be coming together as well or quickly as you had envisioned, it doesn’t usually help to threaten to leave or walk away from a pending deal. Instead, stay calm and restate your offer.

However, should the salesperson become heavy handed or the two of you have genuinely reached an impasse on your preferred price, you can always leave and go to another dealer. They know this is an option for you too, so it is likely that somewhere along the line, the logjam will be broken.

Once you strike the deal, it is time to review the paperwork and the official contract. If you are financing through the dealership, be sure to understand all the conditions. Read through all forms very carefully, paying particular attention to any blank spaces or figures that seem to be inflated. Question the salesperson or finance manager on each and every item that you do not fully understand. Only when you are absolutely, positively certain that you understand all aspects of the contract should you sign the papers.

At some point the time will come when you need to pull out your checkbook.

Write the check for the agreed upon down payment and make copious notes on the check itself, including the VIN number of the purchased vehicle.

Now that you have taken the big step, there is another step to take:
Before You Drive Away

You’ve filled out the paperwork, signed the contact, written a check for the down payment, and you may even be holding a new set of keys, but there are still a couple of things to do before taking official ownership.

One critical thing to do is to verify the car’s vehicle identification number (VIN). If you haven’t written it down and brought it into the sales office with

you, be sure to take the time now to match up the VIN on all your paperwork to both the sticker on the car and the actual VIN located on the car itself.

Inspect the vehicle one more time, looking for any blemishes or imperfections that you may not have noticed during the test drive. If there are problems, have the dealer write down the list of items to be repaired, and insist that those repairs be completed by the service department within 30 days and paid for by the dealer. Get all of these details in writing (with signatures) before leaving.

If the issue of insurance coverage for the vehicle hasn’t been raised earlier, now is the time to bring it up. If you have prearranged temporary coverage through your own insurance agent, be prepared to give the dealer proof. If you are planning to set up your own coverage, you can call your insurance company from the dealership and have policy proof faxed over. If you are financing your new car through the dealership, they will be happy to set up insurance coverage for you.

Once these last minute details are in order, you are ready to move along to the final step:
After the Sale

Buying a new car is not an easy task for most people; it can be time consuming, stressful and expensive. However, if you have followed the steps in this guide, you will have eliminated some of the classic pitfalls that can befall an inexperienced car shopper. Educating yourself, setting a price you can afford (and sticking to it), and understanding the entire buying process goes a long way to make the buying experience much more positive and may even eliminate the possibility of any buyer’s remorse.

Taking possession of a new car is an exhilarating and exciting time. Pride of ownership and the accomplishment of having made the deal create a sense of near euphoria. To best enjoy that remarkable feeling there is only one thing left to do?go for a drive in your brand new car.

Top Makes

Chevrolet

Ford

Toyota

Dodge

Nissan

Honda

Jeep

Chrysler

Popular Body Styles

SUV

Sedan

Pickup

Minivan

Coupe

Wagon

Convertible

Hatchback

Van

Fuel Types

Gasoline

Diesel

Flexible Fuel

Hybrid

Alternative

Ideally, a dealership should help you find the right vehicle at a fair price. But some dealers place more emphasis on their profit margins than on satisfying their customers. When buying a car, keep your interests front and center–and avoid common pitfalls that can cost you extra money–by following these tips:

Tips for Buying a New Car:

1.Do your homework. Many dealerships prey on the unprepared. Going into a showroom “cold”–without having gathered key facts and preliminary pricing figures gives the salesperson too much control over the buying process.

Thoroughly research your choices. Read a variety of reviews. Check the reliability, safety, fuel economy, and pricing of any models you’re considering. And don’t wait until the day you plan to buy to test drive the vehicles.

If you have a trade-in, know its approximate worth. That will depend on the vehicle’s age, condition, mileage, and equipment, as well as where you trade it in. You can get an idea of your trade-in’s value at auto-pricing Web sites or with CR’s Used Car Price Reports (see below). Focus on your car’s wholesale, or “trade-in,” price; the retail price is what you’d expect to get if you were selling it yourself.

2.Don’t assume that the sticker price is the purchase price. To get the lowest price, go in with a starting price that’s based not on the sticker price but on how much the dealer paid for the vehicle. The dealer invoice price is commonly available on Web sites and in pricing guides. But the invoice price isn’t necessarily what the dealer paid. There are often behind-the-scenes bonuses, such as dealer incentives and holdbacks, that give the dealer more profit margin.

You can find sales-incentive information at some auto-pricing Web sites, or in CR’ New Car Price Reports or New Car Buying Kit (see below). These CR services include the CR Wholesale Price, which factors in the dealer invoice, holdback, and any incentives or rebates to give you a close approximation of the dealer’s real cost. A reasonable price to start negotiations is either 4 to 8 percent over what the dealer paid or the CR Wholesale Price, depending on the demand for the model.

You can also check the quotes at auto-buying Web sites such as the ones listed below. The services are free, and you aren’t under any obligation to buy. Keep in mind, however, that you can often get a lower price through effective negotiation at a dealership.

3.Negotiate one thing at one time. Salespeople like to mix financing, leasing, and trade-in negotiations together, often asking you to negotiate around a monthly payment figure. This tactic gives the dealer more latitude to offer you a favorable figure in one area while inflating figures in another.

Make clear that you want the lowest possible markup over your starting price. Add that you intend to visit other dealerships selling the same vehicle and will buy from the dealer with the best price.

Only after you’ve settled on the price should you discuss financing, leasing, or a trade-in, as necessary. Negotiate each item individually. Remember, you’re in charge and can leave at any time. Heading for the door can sometimes jump-start a slow-moving negotiation or bring a lower offer.

4.Arrange financing in advance. Compare interest rates at several banks, credit unions, and loan organizations before checking the dealer’s rates. If preapproved for a loan, you can keep financial arrangements out of the negotiations. Automakers may offer attractive financing terms, but make sure you qualify for them. Otherwise, the salesperson may try to sign you up for a higher rate than you could get elsewhere.

5.Don’t pay for extras you don’t need. Dealers often try to sell you extras such as rustproofing, fabric protection, and paint protectant, or push etching your Vehicle Identification Number on windows to deter thieves.

Don’t accept those unnecessary services and fees. If the items are on the bill of sale, put a line through them. Vehicle bodies are already coated to protect against rust. And CR reliability surveys show that rust is not a major problem with modern cars. You can treat upholstery and apply paint protectant yourself with good off-the-shelf products. You can also do your own VIN etching with a kit that costs about $25.

6. Buy when you don’t have to

beyond fixing (or you just don’t want to put any more money into it). Desperation rarely results in a good deal — for the buyer, anyhow. Smart shoppers The best way to get a great deal on a new car is to avoid being in the position of having to replace the one you’ve got because it just broke down and it’s anticipate the need for a new car and begin looking at what’s available long before they actually need a new car.

7. Shop for money first

Unless you are buying a new car with cash, you should think about new car financing (and interest rates) before you think about what color to get. Many easily be lost over the course of the loan if you sign up for a loan with a higher rate than you could have/should have paid. Check with several potential buyers forget that the cost of money is just as important to the bottom line as the new car price. Whatever you saved up-front on the new car price can lenders — including credit unions, banks and the automakers’ captive financing arms (GMAC, etc.) — then buy a new car. This way, you can focus on one thing at a time instead of two things at once. You will know you got the best deal you could have on at least one of them.

Top 20 Selling Cars

Model Overview
Toyota Camry
Honda Accord
Toyota Corolla
Honda Civic
Nissan Altima
Chevrolet Impala
Toyota Prius
Chevrolet Cobalt
Hyundai Sonata
Ford Focus
Pontiac G6
Mazda3
BMW 3-Series
Ford Mustang
Nissan Sentra
Ford Fusion
Chrysler 300
Chevrolet Malibu
Buick Lucerne
Toyota Yaris

Sales data shown is of top 20 selling cars and trucks as compiled by Autodata Corporation.

8. Compare incentives

several thousand dollars off the new car price. If you’re considering two similar (but different brand) vehicles, incentives on one of them could be all the To jump-start sales, many automakers offer various incentives (cash back, “customer loyalty” discounts, special financing deals, etc.) that can be worth incentive you need to make the choice between them. You can also use incentives on one brand as a negotiating point for the purchase of another. Point out to the salesman that you could buy new car brand “x” for $2,000 off the sticker and ask if there’s anything he can do to make his brand more cost competitive –

such as tossing in a no-cost extended warranty or free oil changes for two years, etc.

9. Know what you’re buying

Most models of new cars (and trucks, SUVs and minivans, too) come in several trim levels, with your choice of engines, transmissions, safety equipment and other features. You should always know at least as much about your next new car as the salesman does so you can talk about the car knowledgeably with the salesman. You don’t want to get pushed into buying a new car with things you don’t really need or end up with one that lacks some things you end up wishing you had bought. Information is readily available: see the automakers’ Web sites and read as many expert reviews as you can find. You should also take a thorough test drive of at least two hours before buying a new car. Make sure the vehicle is comfortable and there are no design problems (excessive blind spots, uncomfortable seats, noisy engine/hard to shift transmission, etc.) that you might hate to have to live with if you actually owned the car. You may

save yourself a big headache and a lot of money, too.

10. Know how much your old car’s worth

you much good if you save $2,000 on the new one but lose an equivalent amount on your trade-in. The exact value of every used car is vehicle-specific, there A big mistake made by many buyers is to focus on the new car, and its price, while forgetting to know just exactly what their old one’s worth. It doesn’t do are almost always significant differences in condition, equipment and mileage. However, you can still get a very solid “ballpark” idea by checking current trade-in/resale prices for cars like yours in the classified ads and in trade guides such as Kelley Blue Book and the National Automobile Dealer

Association’s used car price books. You can adjust the value up or down for things like higher-than-normal mileage, excellent (or just average) condition and so on. Be aware that there is a difference of about 10 percent in retail vs. wholesale prices. “Retail” refers to what the used car would be advertised for

by a private seller or dealer; “wholesale” refers to the offer the dealer would make you for the car as a trade. The difference reflects his profit margin as well as the costs involved in cleaning up and otherwise “prepping” the vehicle for resale.

And finally …

11. Don’t wear your heart on your sleeve

Getting emotional about a new car or truck is fine, once you get home. But when you’re buying a new car, you’ll almost certainly do better if you can remain as aloof and detached as Mr. Spock. Never portray more than casual interest in a car; salesmen react to emotional buyers like sharks react to blood in the water. If you feel your heart might get ahead of your head, bring a spouse (or a good friend) along to keep you out of trouble. You should convey a “take it or leave” it impression — and the more convincing your performance, the more likely you’ll drive home a deal.

A brand-new smelling fast car does not necessarily mean it’s clean. In fact, those smell from new fast cars come from unsettled molecules of VOCs (volatile organic compounds) such as rubber or plastic materials and cleaning solvents.According to a study in Australia, there are over 30 organic compounds, some toxic, that are found floating in fast new cars.

In order to counter these chemicals, drive with an open window for the first four to six months of cruising with your new fast car.
Always remember that your supercar automobile is a refuge of all smoke, bacteria, exhaust fumes and various airborne contaminants. A clean smell can be disrupted by either liquid and solid wastes or an automotive problem.Here is a list of several smells that may be caused by internal problems of your hot fast car.

1) EXHAUST FUMES.
When your fast cars smells like exhaust fumes, it can be a sign of leaks in the exhaust system, including in the muffler, exhaust manifold, tailpipe and exhaust pipes. It can also be due to worn seal on the rear door or hatchback.
Once you smell this, make sure to take action immediately. Exhausts can be deadly due to carbon monoxide. During these occasions, it is best for your super fast car to be serviced by a mechanic or muffler.

2) GAS
If your fast car smells like raw gas, it could signify leakage in the tailpipe, muffler, exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. It can also be due to worn seal on rear door or hatchback.
When this happens, check if the gas cap is loose or misplaced. If the smell persists,bring your new fast car to the mechanic right away.

3) PLASTIC
The smell of burning plastic inside your super fast car could be caused by any kind of plastic lying on the road that has been stuck to the hot exhaust located beneath the car. Although this can be difficult to get rid off, it is best to crawl under the car and scrape the plastic manually.

4) OIL
Smelling oil leakage could cause light smoke and a very foul smell. This is usually caused by an oil engine leakage that spills into the exhaust manifold and begins to be burnt. Preventive oil maintenance is the best way to avoid this problem. However, if you’re in this kind of situation, bring your new fast car to the mechanic to be fixed.
A foul smell on your fast car can mean more than it is. It can damage your engine or your tires and cause a car breakdown. Be cautious about these smells to prevent further damage of your fast new car. Contact a mechanic right away if an unusual smells brings about.

My car used to look like a catch-all for the city dump. Since I am in my car so much, I treat used to treat it like a drop off place for all extra items. It used to be that, at any given moment, I’d have at least three dollars worth of empty aluminum cans, sheaves of papers, library books, and a plethora of other items strewn about the inside of my vehicle. I was embarrassed to have anyone ride with me because I’d have to re-arrange the contents just to make space for them to be seated inside. And my trunk! It looked like a trash pile in there as well; things rolling around would sometimes make me think that my car’s suspension had a problem! But no more: I have created a very simple method of organizing the my car and keeping it smelling fresh and clean.

TIP 1: Crate The Excess!

I purchased three inexpensive plastic crates that cost four dollars each; two for my trunk and one for the back seat

of my car. I don’t know about your trunk but mine holds not only emergency road supplies (a blanket, a jug of water, flashlight, gas additive, two extra bottles of oil, light jacket, gloves, snow scraper, hiking boots) but also various garage sale purchases, and seemingly endless other things that just appear out of some invisible black hole.

I used two crates in the trunk; one for the emergency road items and one for miscellaneous items. Wow! Suddenly, I didn’t have to shift everything around to put groceries or department store purchases in my trunk! And, whenever I purchase breakable items at garage sales or department stores, they are safe in the miscellaneous crate and won’t roll around should I have to brake suddenly (usually for yet another garage sale!) They also act as stabilizers for grocery sacks.

The third crate I placed in the back seat of my car for items such as library books or items borrowed from friends to be returned. Instantly, my car wasn’t cluttered any longer! Plus, nothing gets “accidentally lost” under the seats anymore. Also, when vacuuming my car, I don’t have to continuously pick things up to vacuum under them. These crates have really been a time saver for me, not to mention improving the look of my car!

TIP 2: The Glove Compartment

I don’t think I have ever put a pair of gloves in this area of my car! But, oh goodness, the things that find their way into that glove box. I used to use this part of my car to cram gas receipts, tissues, paper napkins, maps, and my car manual plus whatever was in the way on my passenger seat when someone was to ride with me…that is, whatever didn’t get pitched into the back seat! I found a way to organize this area: manilla letter envelopes. I have three; one for gas receipts, one for maps, and one for napkins and tissues. I finally cleaned out my car manual packet of all the old insurance cards and registration forms and the thing is at least 50% thinner! Now, whenever I need to add to my glove box, I have a place for everything that belongs there plus I now have room for my extra sunglasses, a couple of fresh packs of cracker snacks for the times I’m stuck in traffic needing a little energy boost, and plenty of space for a pen and small pad of paper for notes.

TIP 3: A Trash Bag

This is absolutely essential to any vehicle. For my trash bags, I keep a few plastic grocery bags tucked under the passenger seat for soda cans, empty cigarette packs, used tissues, empty fast food containers and other trash. By keeping on top of this type of trash, my car stays clean.

TIP 4: A Fresh Scent

Many people will buy special car deodorants for their vehicles but there is never a need for that expense: the very best way to keep your car smelling fresh is to put a dryer sheet under a seat. It’s that simple.

Just like in the dryer, heat inside the vehicle causes the dryer sheet to release its fresh scent and your vehicle will always smell wonderful even if you are a smoker! Plus, the cost to you is so minimal (about 3 cents per dryer sheet), much cheaper than those ugly pine trees that dangle from the mirror or the cans of solid scent that sometimes will melt and spill on your interior carpet. I change the sheet out whenever I can no longer smell it, about once every three weeks. This method is cheap and effective.

Try these simple methods yourself and see what a difference they make in keeping your own car clean and fresh!

Ways to Keep Your Car Smelling Good

Don’t smoke. This is one of the hardest smells to get out of the interior of a vehicle. Wait until you are home or at work where you can get out and smoke.

Keep your windows rolled up during bad weather. Rain can get inside and if left unattended, can start to mildew and stink your vehicle up!

Air fresheners and scented items are great for a clean smell. This will help cover up any bad smells your vehicle might’ve picked up along its lifespan. Keeping an air freshener attached to your air vent will help circulate the scent throughout the vehicle.

If you are a messy eater, then try to avoid eating in the car. While driving, it is easy to drop food into cracks in the seat and onto the floorboard. If you are in a hurry and forget to clean out all the spilled food, it can quickly start to smell up the interio

A fact of life and car materials is that eventually the moisture and chemicals that give a new car that smell will go away.

You can prolong that time by not letting the car ever get hot or see the sun. By keeping the windows up, and by never ever sitting in it!

Just kidding. Really though, the more you use the car, the quicker the smell will go away. What gives any new car (or any new item) that “new” smell is really all the chemicals. In this case the chemicals in vinyl, rubber, carpet/cloth and leather. Even the paint, sealants, padding and grease/oil used on all over the interior of any new car.

Ever wonder what the scum is on the inside of windows of cars when the owners don’t smoke? It is that new car smell! The scum is the result of gasses off of all the material inside the car mixed with usual dirt in the air and humidity from the air and human breath. That all gets on the windows (and all over everything else too) and causes that nasty stuff that is hard to get off.

The more you introduce new smells (food, coffee, smoke, smells from the outside etc) into your car, the quicker they overwhelm the factory smells.

But eventually all those new things in your car age, no matter what you do and no longer have that smell. Ever wonder why old vinyl, leather or rubber is so hard and easy to crack? Same reason it no longer smells new, all the chemicals that made it soft when new are now gone.

The cleaner you keep your car, and the less you let it sit in the sun and the heat that makes those chemicals dry up, the better off you are.

Use a sunshade, leave a window cracked, park in the shade or garage as much as possible.

Keep your interior clean. Use cleaning chemicals that introduce as little of their own smell as possible. All DC CarCare products are chosen to put as little of their own smell into the car as possible, or at least leave a natural (car like) smell.

For leather and vinyl, a product like Lexol Leather Cleaner and Conditioner cleans dirt and outside smells while putting back in needed moisture and protecting the PH of the leather. Lexol Vinylex does the same thing for interior or exterior vinyl and plastic.

Finally, I do NOT recommend any car deodorizers, at least yet. I have tried a lot of them, but the traditional pine tree is for covering up BAD smells, not keeping the good ones. Most other car “smell” products also introduce a smell that is usually far worse than what you have to begin with. There are even some now that advertise that they smell “like a new car” Funny how they can say that, because every new car smells different. Typically, Japanese cars smell different from European and both smell different from American cars. It is the different types of materials they traditionally use along with the mix of materials. Compare several different brand new cars and you will see what I mean.

You could try some of those smells/deodorants, but I would NOT recommend you use any of them in a car till you try them out somewhere else…in the garage, or outside the garage. And only use a TINY amount of any smell chemical or spray because some of them have been known to hang around for years, and most are NOT something you want to smell every time.

And if some day you get in your car and you can’t smell new leather, or new vinyl, then at least it should smell clean and not musty. That is what our products will do for you. After detailing your car with DC CarCare products you will smell some new smells in your car, but that should go away in a day or two, leaving you car smelling the way you remember.

You can also buy some new things like a new set of floor mats, or a new leather Wheelskin steering wheel cover. New items have some of the “new” smell and can add in good new smells from time to time while making you feel better along the way.

Finally, if you ever have others wash or detail your car, keep them from soaking the interior in soapy water, or using perfumed chemicals on the inside. Ask before you turn your car over for the first time (ask EVERY time to be sure) to smell what they will use and HOW they will do it? You may get your new car back smelling like bubblegum, or worse, mold and mildew, and THAT would be a shame.

How To Keep Your Car Smelling Fresh From The Inside

Some say that a car is like your second home. If it is, then just like your home, you’d like it to be clean and smelling fresh. I mean, who wants to come home to a house that stinks, right? Same thing applies to your car. So how do you go about ensuring that your car smells like it just came out of the shower? Well, here are some tips from Kicking Tires that might help you out:

Bag your clothes – In case you just came from the beach or from practice, make it a point to bag your wet or used clothes. That way, it won’t incur mildew and at the same time stink up your car. Plastic bags are recommended but only for short rides. For the occasional long one, bring a duffel bag but make sure you get it cleaned right after so the smell doesn’t stay.

Leave the windows open – While you’re A/C gives you cooler air, it does have a tendency to keep the smell circulating inside. Leaving your windows open allows the inside of your car to breathe and expel any stench inside. That my friend, is where we let natural air do its job of getting rid of any unimaginable stench lingering inside your car.

Get stain-resistant seat covers – During long trips (and even during short ones), we can’t avoid having a meal inside our car. While it’s a good way to manage your time, the problem with this is that the food and drink you’re enjoying may end up spilling over your seat covers. Keeping them unclean can cause you to inhale something you’d wish you’ve never smelled at all. So to make it easier for you to maintain and keep your seats clean, go for this type of seat cover.

Get a car freshener – This one I just added to the mix. Just like perfumes, a car freshener can help add a sweet aroma and counter the effects of bad smell currently entering your nostrils. It’s readily available in all automobile shops and practically doesn’t require any type of installation.

Bring a trash bag – this is in relation to tip 3. If you enjoy eating in your car, make sure you have a bag to stash away your trash. Also, make sure that it’s sealed tight to keep its contents from spilling out.

Make sure you’re clean – I know we’re talking about making sure that the insides of your car smells fresh and clean but in case you’ve got all the things above covered and your car still smells, you might have to check if you’re the problem. Maybe the shirt you’re wearing got stuck up in the closet for too long or the perfume you’re wearing just isn’t cutting it. Either way, make sure you’re smelling fresh and clean before stepping in your car.

So there you have it. At least the next time you go on the road, you’ll know what to do to help keep your car clean and prevent your passengers from hurling or fainting at the same time.

Keep Your Car Interior Clean and Smelling Fresh
Everyone loves that new-car smell, but sooner or later most cars start smelling used. Learn how to keep the interior of your car smelling as clean and fresh as the rest of your vehicle with these quick tips and fast fixes.

Keep It Clean
Major road trips or long commutes often mean a few spills or piles of clutter. Always take time to throw away whatever tissue or trash is in the car when you get home or stop for gasoline. Try to have your car professionally cleaned inside and out. Use non-toxic carpet and upholstery cleaner with an enzymatic neutralizer to eliminate odors without contaminating your car.

Prevention
The upholstery of many new cars is treated with stain repellant to help reduce the absorption of accidental spills; unfortunately, it can wear off over time and may need to be touched up — especially in high-use areas like arm rests. Spray-on stain repellant like Scotch Guard is easy to apply and helps prevent stains and odor.

Don’t Smoke
Not only does smoking inside a vehicle expose others to dangerous second-hand smoke, but tobacco is one of the most difficult odors to remove from the upholstery of your vehicle. It also increases insurance rates and decreases the resale value of your vehicle.

Quick Fix Spill Kit
Carry a quick-fix emergency kit for accidental spills. Use an absorbent towel to soak up the spill, then spot treat with a “green” upholstery spray cleaner. It’s also a good idea to carry wet wipes to get rid of fingerprints and other common causes of grime left behind by active kids and pets.

Stop Skin Contact
Use seat protectors or covers to put a barrier between skin and upholstery, especially if you’re active or use your vehicle to transport kids or pets. Not only do the natural oils in your skin attract dirt and grime, but the odor-causing bacteria contained in sweat make even the cleanest car smell like a locker room.

Seal It
Whether you’re doing laundry or transporting garden fertilizer, whenever possible use a sealed storage box or plastic bag to keep smelly items away from odor-absorbent areas of the car like carpeting or upholstery.

Skip the Snack
Oily snacks and fast foods are common odor culprits. If you need to eat or drink when driving, find foods without lots of grease. Not only are they better for your health, but your car is less likely to absorb oil-based odors frequently found on everything from French fries to chips.

Add a Breath of Fresh Air
Today there are more choices than ever when it comes to freshening the interior of your car. From aromatherapy to simple fragrances, refresh your car’s interior with these simple ideas:

Aromatherapy: Use a few drops of your favorite essential oil in an inconspicuous place for a fragrance that reflects your perfect scent. Essential oils are also fun ways to change your car smell for seasonal holidays. Plus, they are usually all-natural, making them as safe as they are fragrant.

Diffusers: Diffusers are another popular alternative for those who prefer an automatic dispersal of oils. Simply plug into the cigarette lighter of the car and fill with oil for a gentle fragrance that continually updates itself.

Traditional Air Fresheners: Add a touch of nostalgia to your ride by hanging a simple air freshener over the rearview mirror; effective and inexpensive, these are the perfect solution for vintage car owners.

Ten steps of keeping your car smelling clean:

step1:
Empty everything out of the vehicle and trunk, discard the obvious garbage, and return coffee cups to the kitchen.

Step2:
Sort the remaining items into piles, such as maintenance supplies, kids’ stuff, music and videos, manuals and maps.

Step3:
Clean all interior surfaces. Vacuum the floors and seats, wipe down the dash and doors, clean windows and shake out the floor mats.

Step4:
Keep a trash bin on the floor of the back seat, or hang a trash bag from the dashboard.

Step5:
Stash kids’ toys, small books and travel games in a behind-theseat organizer (a hanging shoe bag works, too), within reach of backseat passengers. Periodically rotate items in and out to keep kids interested.

Step6:
Stow tapes and CDs in visor organizers. Separate kids’ tunes from adult music.

Step7:
Store the following in the glove compartment: owner’s manual, maps, vehicle registration information (if required), auto club information, accident report form, notepad, pen, disposable camera, flashlight, list of emergency contact names and numbers, tire gauge, paper napkins and any other frequently needed or essential items.

Step8:
Purchase or make an emergency kit for your vehicle and store it in the trunk or rear of the car. Include booster cables, a tire gauge, flares, reflective tape, a help sign, a screwdriver, pliers, a first aid kit, work gloves, a blanket, an old towel or rags, a jug of water and motor oil. .

Step9:
Put together a survival kit, especially if you live in a cold-weather climate. Include candles, waterproof matches, energy bars or candy bars, large plastic garbage bags and rubber bands. Keep larger items, such as cat litter (for slippery roads), a collapsible shovel, an extra blanket and heavy socks, hats and mittens (enough for several passengers), in a duffel bag or tub in the trunk or rear of the car.

Step10:
Tackle the car again every season. Restock all your kits; check your maintenance schedule to see when servicing is needed .

Actually, it’s really easy to make your car smell nice… without resorting to using things to rescent it.

There’s a couple of steps. First, CLEAN it. If there’s a lot of staining in the seats, get it shampooed at a detailing place. To make it smell good without resorting to chemicals, you’re going to have to vacuum it regularly; get used to it.

Second, go to your local wal-mart type store and get two things: A can of citrus de-scenting spray (Lemon or orange-based stuff), and a bag of activated charcoal. After your seats and carpets are as clean as you can get them, spray a light dusting of the citrus on the seats and carpet. DO NOT spray it on anything vinyl or plastic; citrus will stain and etch the plastic. Let the car air out.

Third, vacuum regularly. I can not streess how, if you want to keep your car smelling decently without the use of toxic, stinky chemicals, you have to clean it regularly. If you spill something on the carpet, use carpet cleaners to get it out just as you would the carpet in your home.

Finish off your detailing by spraying a small amount of endust or other NON-WAXING furniture polish … I like the lemon scent … and rubbing down all of the plastic surfaces. This removes the dust and scuzz, which is also smelly, and provides a disincentive for it to stick again, as well as a degree of UV protection. Don’t use armor-all. Armor-all products suck and will shine up your dashboard to a nice bright shiny blinding shine.

If you’re dealing with a moldy smell inside the car that doesn’t go away after that, you’re dealing with a mold or other scuzz infestation in your air ducts due to condensation and liquid coming in through the intakes.
Get some lysol, turn the car on enough that the fan is running, open the hood, OPEN THE WINDOWS, turn the fans on their highest settings and the temperature selector all the way to ‘cool’, and spray lysol into the air intake. You’ll need a good amount. Then do the same with heat. (They use a different register.) Then turn it back to cool and leave the fan on high until you can no longer smell lysol coming from the air ducts. When you get in the car the first time, let all the windows down and drive with the heat blowing full blast for a while so that all the lysol on the heating elements burns off without capturing the toxic fumes in your car.

If you have leather, I recommend cleaning with Lexol regularly. Again, DO NOT use armor-all. Armor-all is bad.

Derived from the Continental GT Coupe, the Continental GTC will be another impressive addition to Bentley’s line of luxurious fast cars. Probably one of the smallest Bentley cars to be produced, the 2007 GTC convertible sports car is expected to have a tag price of $189,990.Without the Bentley classic look, the topless Continental GTC will become a drastically improved super fast car, which focuses on modern technology, car to economy proportions and performance level.

When the Continental GTC was launched in April 2006 at the New York International Automobile Show, this new fast car completes the Bentley Continental Lineup. From the 2003 Continental GT fast car to the 2005 Continental Flying Spur and the 2007 Continental GTC, this impressive Bentley lineup has evolved spectacularly in the world of automobile.

The 2007 GTC new fast cars will be equipped with a state-of-the-art 552 HP twin turbocharged 6-liter W12 engine. This Bentley-inspired back-to-back V6 engine can produce 552 horsepower at 6100 rpm and 480 lbs-ft of torque at 1600 rpm.Accelerating to a top speed of 195 mph, these hot fast cars of Bentley can rocket from zero to 60 mph in just 4.8 seconds. Although the GT Coupe and the GTC measurements are identical, the chopped roof of the 2007 fast new cars allows it to look longer and generally improve its entire aesthetic.

Unlike most of the classic Bentley that uses RWD, the 2007 GTC applies all-wheel-drive to maximize engine power performance and safety. Geared towards handling, this super fast car also features enhanced systems for braking, traction control and stability control.The Continental GTC new fast car offers the same features as its twin coupe – a six-speed Tiptronic automatic gearbox with manual shifting options, continuous air-damping suspension with four distinct control levels, huge brake discs,

Exclusive features of this fast convertible car include a multi-layer, powered convertible leather-lined top, glass rear window with heating element, overhead interior light, lighter-weighted steering, reduced friction and ventilated pizza pans. The modern electro-hydraulically operated roof folds in within 25 seconds.Optional add-ons include a cross braces, steel sill support and sturdy windshield pillars, which are all used to counter the unwanted shake experienced when driving the GTC.

The interior of this elegant fast car is decorated with natural wood veneers, satin metal accents and hand-made leather upholstery. With a large variety of exterior options such as color palettes, upholstery colors, top designs, aluminum dash panels, seats and door panel stitching, leather and 4-spoke wood steering wheel, premium veneers, alloy fuel filter cap, lambs wool carpet and embossed seat surfaces – the buyers can personalize the appearance of their super fast car.Named by Bentley as “the showpiece for Bentley design”, the 2007 GTC is perfect for any driving experience – from an effortless sports car driving to an extraordinary convertible performance, this GTC fast cars will definitely make a statement.

2007 BENTLEY CONTINENTAL GTC 2007 SPECIFICATIONS

GENERAL INFO

* Price: $187,475 (estimate)
* Curb Weight: 5,456 lbs
* Height: 58 in
* Length: 209 in
* Drivetrain Layout: Front Engine/AWD

FUEL

* Capacity: 23.8 Gallons
* Average Fuel Economy(Miles per gallon): 11 mpg
* Type: Gasoline – Petrol
* Recommended fuel: Unleaded

TRANSMISSION

* Name: ZF 6-speed automatic with Tiptronic feature
* Speed: 6 Gears
* Type: Semi-Automatic

Engine

* Type: Twin Turbo 6L W12
* Displacement: 366 Ci/ 5998 Cc
* Horsepower: 552 HP @ 6100 RPM
* Torque: 480 lbs-ft @ 1600 RPM
* Redline: 6300 RPM

Performance

* 0-60 mph: 4.8 seconds
* 0-100 mph: N/A
* 200-ft Skidpad: N/A
* Top speed: 195 mph
* Braking (60-0 mph): N/A
* Slalom Speed: N/A

n 2005, the Porsche Boxster and Boxster S supercar automobile were given a total makeover. However, most of its improvements, including the steering, electronics, seats and front structure, was derived from another Porsche – the 2005 911 Carrera.

With this revamped model, the Boxster fast cars now come with a stronger body structure, larger air intakes, new front and back seats, redesigned taillights, round headlamps, restyled dash, larger wheels and a convertible top. These super fast cars also offer more horsepower, enhanced aerodynamics, an upgraded transmission and improved fuel economy.

In 2006, both the Porsche Boxster and Boxster S received slight changes. The few improvements to the fast convertible car include the two-stage front airbags with organic-based propellant, passenger seats with weight sensor and an mp3-compatible audio system.The Boxster S, with the price tag of $78,000, features a 280 horsepower 3.2-liter flat-six engine complemented by a six-speed manual gearbox. This new fast car also includes an optional transmission – a five-speed automatic Tiptronic transmission with manual steering wheel, floor shifter and gear selector buttons.

With its impressive snout and exterior beauty, the super fast cars of Boxster S can produce 280 horsepower at 6200 rpm and 236 ft-lbs of torque at 4700 rpm. With a 7200-rpm redline; this fast convertible sports car can accelerate from zero to 60 mph in just 5 seconds and through 100 mph in 12.3 seconds.

Standard features of this stunningly hot fast car include the power-operated convertible top with power windows, heated glass rear window, remote-controlled central locking, Homelink garage door opener, cruise control system, alarm system and a CD player as well as head, front and side curtain airbags.The 2006 Porsche Boxster S fast car is offered with a larger 3.2-liter Flat-6 engine, massive 18-inch wheels and tires, larger brakes, a seven-speaker stereo system and central dual exhaust pipes, which exits at its rear.

The Porsche S new fast cars drive with a four-wheel independent McPherson strut suspension, stability control, four large disc brakes with ABS, traction control and an automatically deploying rear spoiler.In the inside, this fast cool car provides both driving comfort and dynamic driving support. The interior door panels, dashboards and center console sides are covered with highly durable material that looks like leather. However, the door handles, handbrake lever and steering wheel are all covered in high quality leather. For the air vents and gearshift lever, aluminum-looking materials are used.

The seats of the Boxster S hot fast cars are mounted as low as possible in order to enhance driving dynamics and increase headroom space when the convertible top is up.With the classic mid-engine design, supreme handling features, ample usable power, pinpoint steering, fast powered-top operation, usable cargo compartment and overall styling of these super fast cars, many car enthusiasts find the 2006 Porsche Boxster S appeal hard to ignore.

2006 PORSCHE BOXSTER S SPECIFICATIONS

GENERAL INFO

1. Price: $55,000
2. Curb Weight: 3130 lbs
3. Height: 51 in
4. Length: 171.6 in
5. Layout: Mid-Engine/Rear Wheel Drive

FUEL

1. Capacity: 16.9 Gallons
2. Average Fuel Economy(Miles per gallon): 28 mpg
3. Type: Gasoline – Petrol
4. Recommended fuel: 91 Octane, Premium Unleaded

TRANSMISSION

1. Name: 6-Speed Manual (or 5-speed Automatic)
2. Speed: 6 Gears (5 Gears)
3. Type: Manual (Automatic)

Engine

1. Type: DOHC 3.2L Flat-6
2. Displacement: 207 Ci/ 3387 Cc
3. Horsepower: 280 HP @ 6200 RPM
4. Torque: 236 ft-lbs @ 4700 RPM
5. Redline: 7200 RPM

Performance

1. 0-60 mph: 5 seconds
2. 0-100 mph: 12.3 seconds
3. 200-ft Skidpad: 1.00g
4. Top speed:170 mph
5. Braking (60-0 mph): 107 ft
6. 700-ft Slalom Speed: 73.9 mph